Search results

Thank you Mark, I never used the hot glue, is it difficult to remove from the stag after the cuts?

Great start indeed, congratulations!! :) I also left the nicknail out on my first take, and am currently trying a way to cut one on scrap with unsatisfactory results... i don't have a mill or surface grinder and consider insightable the nicks obtained with the dremel cut-off wheels...better...

Just a word of wisdom... please don't assume that the part in contact with the belt stays under 400 degrees just because you see evaporating on the opposite side and then dunk. The better way to grind post ht is to spray the belt with water and grind under a water film...when finally we are to...

great knife!!!

Wow, congratulations!! I have also just stepped in the slipjoint making and it is fantastic!! I really like your knife, and have some questions, to get help for my next trial. I noticed you did a perfect job on peening the pivot, but it is showing in colour, what steel did you use for...

Hi everybody, i did my first slipjoint with stag scales and i have been lucky to have still 10 fingers on my hands. I will definitely build some jig for the bandsaw for the next one, and i would ask if someone has got some pointer for the jig construction....i need to make scales from roll and...

Wow Kevin, i'll go on the internet searching for pictures while i'm dying to see yours!! Merry Christmas!! :) Stefano

i like 4 1/2 backpocket and swayback

Congratulations for your first Walkandtalk!!!! I have also finished my very first slippie and i'm so happy with the result. Mine is in C70 (aisi 1070), the next will be in sandvik 14c28n, a steel i tested before with EXTREMELY satisfactory results...it is of the super-keen-edge-no-carbide...

I don't think much harm has been done. the spring should be safe and sound

Thank You John, I had also found 1000 °F for slippie spring temper with stainless as adopted by makers on the forums. I suppose it does work also for AEB-L. I would test some coupons and check for returning to true with a rise/fall indicator, or cuss for snapp!! ;) Basically is the spring will...

Great idea installing the plunge vise... if the slot is machined with tight tolerance to the vise would help, when positioning for the reverse side, to keep the exact same angle without any tilting

I strongly suggest to have the oven very well equalized at the austenitization temperature before putting the blade in. Quick to the aus temp. is way to go...then soak accordingly to your carbides condition

There is no problem if you have plates big enough to quench 2 blades aside...the foil can be one but you should not put the blades flat on flat, you need the flats contacting only the quench plates

I don't think the RR spikes fall into precise carbon %, so certain variability... the as-quenched hardness may be in the 55-58 hrc, especially when overheated. An accurate hrc reading requires perfect flat parallel clean surfaces, and a machine "zeroed" with sound reference.

I can't find any error in your procedure, the only thing i'm noticing from the pic is that the bottom of the notches make sharp 90° angles to the blade planes, and that is scary ;) I usually feel more confortable to break all the sharp corners before the ht (spine, edge, riacsso and tang...

I believe Franklin noticed a feature that could deserve further investigation. i consider a possibility that the tempering carbides could play a role in the oxides color during tempering, and you can have different colors (same steel, same temperature, only one tempering cicle of the same time)...