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Glad that others are finding it useful! Thanks Fred!

Thank you so much for taking the time to write such a response. It was WELL received, Kevin. And what's even scary....I actually understand it all! After reading the initial post and scratching my noggin, I had to call up Professor Verhoeven's work, along with a few others (ASM), and found...

I recently read elsewhere concerning quenching steel in oil. 1095 was the alloy given as example. Should I be changing my procedure? Am I missing something huge here? Two knives identical. Heat treat identical. Knife A goes into Parks 50 and stays there until it is cooled down to ambient...

When you're ready to go with that AEB-L, Scott, skip the snap temper. From what I am hearing, AEB-L gets best performance if the snap is skipped. As a friend of mine said, "Why interrupt Mf?" I mean, I know the answer.....stress relief. But you probably don't need that is the point. Go from...

"and bomb squads say they'll set off bombs, so don't go poking at any bombs with your magnetized knife......." I just heard a click. Uh oh...........Kaaaa boooooooom!

I am NOT a scientist. Some of you who may be....please verify or correct me here. Iron oxide is NOT magnetic. Steel, of course, is magnetic at room temp. So if you have a layer of iron oxide on steel, depending on how thick the oxide layer is, the magnet may not stick. But in...

Indeed that is pretty cool, Scott. So where did you source this steel? Looks like an O1 formulation, correct? A little more vanadium than most? Curious as to where you got it. Thanks

It is more than just "proper" to do two or more tempers. The first temper, along with the stress relief function, forms super super small carbides called Hagg and Eta carbides. The second temper converts any RA over to carbides and ferrite. The third temper (only when using the upper...

Thanks Kentucky. You may be right. Due to past experience with Kevin's recommendations on how to handle Aldo's 52100, 400F may not be enough to drop it down to 60. But edges aren't chipping....so I'm happy!!! I am always impressed how hard steel is when hardened. It is like magic to me...

I was thinking the EXACT same thing yesterday when doing these blades, Stezann. But, alas, they both got the same heat treat and temper. Only difference was the quench medium. 100F P50 vs 130F canola. I would LOVE an RC tester, but don't have access to one. So my file test showed they...

Thanks Warren! I remember your 1460F notes.

Today I have to get a couple blades done. Both are almost identical 4" utility/hunters. One in 52100 and the other is W2. Both came from Aldo, bar stock, spheroidized, stock removal only. My heat treat for both steels is pretty much the same. Is that OK, or am I missing something? My...

Agreed on the Parks 50. 1095 and W2 take on a new life with that stuff! I have tested it on every carbon steel I play with. 1080+, 1084, 1095, W2, O1, O7, Blue, White, 52100, 15n20, CFV. Some of those steels don't need the fast quench, and I usually use warm canola for CFV, 52100. But it...

A HUGE "Thank you" to Kevin......yet AGAIN....for such a comprehensive answer to the question presented.

Maybe you mean .085"??? JMforge, I have done two knives in CFV quenched in room temp Parks 50. (and two with canola a few years ago) Both were identical, 4" drop point hunters. .110" spine. Edge was at .020" before heat treat. On one I did a short soak at 1525F. The other got a 10 minute...

Those numbers are on the money. 68 as quenched CFV is right, too. Max, but realistic. But 63RC after 515F????

Cody, I'm glad you're getting good performance. It's hard to screw up CFV I think, and that is why they made the stuff. To be easy to forge and heat treat, but give great performance! So go to town cutting!!!! I have done 1475, 1500, and 1530F hardening temps. The difference was difficulty...

KDX....don't give up on the hamons and carbon steels bro! That is looking good! Better than my first by FAR!

Thanks Doug and Warren. I keep forgetting about coupons....thinking you're left testing your knife. Not the case!

Reading your post Mr Lester, I am left scratching my head. My knowledge is no where near yours, so please don't misunderstand, I am just trying to understand this. Basically you are saying that W2 cannot be RC'd accurately on the ricasso because the ricasso is thicker than the blade? If that...