Search results

That's what I was referring to..... industry generally refers to them as "Spring Cylinder." The term "pneumatic" is generally used to describe air cylinders. Either way.... we're talking about the same part/item. :)

My immediate gut instinct says belt tension. However, if memory serves, isn't that one of the machine that the motor is mounted separately? I mean the motor is not mounted to the machine's frame? If it is that type of machine, then the belt slipping can also be due to the motor not being...

Likely very little..... because unlike a plasma or laser..... you're not heating the steel to the point of ionizing it. ;)

It's in the post above.....the one with the pic of the damascus blade.

I clean first with acetone, and then, because acetone evaporates so rapidly, it sometimes leave a residue behind.... so the second cleaning is with windex. ***By the way...here's a trick with "windex"..... if you happen to have a Big Lots store around, go there and buy 1/2 gallon jugs of...

Yes, Either satin or matte clear ONLY! (which ever you choose/like the best). In my experience, I choose satin, because the matte is way more visible in the finished product then satin. The gloss clear looks horrible....line the blade has a plastic coating. (see my pics earlier in this...

You guys are making a fork in the road, so I thought I'd just run with it! :) IF you want to keep that maximum contrast on damascus blades, the most durable/lasting method is..... ***First, the finer and tighter the pattern on a damascus blade....the better the following works.... 1...

I can't help myself here, because I see a tunnel forming. So, before something goes very wrong for you, I'm going to interject here..... Don't get tunnel vision on a specific Rc hardness number(s). There's a whole lot more to it then just a hardness number/level. I do/say this because...

My input.... I'll avoid advice on the heat treat, because I personally think soaking for 10 mins is pretty absurd, and am sure that doing so produces far more harm then good. 15N20 essentially 1075, with 1.5% nickel. Treat it as you would 1075/1080. Personally I think 60 is a bit...

It depends on how good an individual is at Oxy/Acty cutting. Based on my experience, no matter who good an individuals it, the HAZ will be much larger on parts cut with Oxy/Acty versus Plasma or laser. Just a rough estimate, but from what I've seen, you're looking at 1/8"+ for an average...

Depends on your interpretation of "crazy expensive". Blast cabinets are unique in the tool world.... in that there isn't any "mid grade" stuff out there. It's either cheap, and barely works, or if you want it to work well, it's expensive. There are a few that fall between $500-$1K, but...

There's a lot of different scenarios from maker to maker and shop to shop. Many folks don't have a shop that is full time heated. Depending on their situation or location, they may only run a heater as needed, or if it's cold, when they are actually working in the shop. That presents issues...

That'll preserve and make your epoxies usable during cold weather/spells, and if you can have for curing, I'd say its a fantastic idea. But, if you have to leave it to cure in the cold, the curing time will be greatly increased, and if it freezes, it's pretty much a "do over". Just...

Buy from KG (or anywhere you can find a good deal, in liquid form, AND in a small bottle....far more economical. The reason you want a small quantity, because when applied correctly it goes a LONG WAY, and it doesn't have a great shelf life. I recommend using a cheap harbor freight air...

At the risk of ruffling feathers..... I totally disagree that it's "taken care of during heat treat". Now, having said that, it is a matter of degrees.....as in, the immediate area where the plasma or laser cuts, is simply beyond repair.... that can be a couple thousandths...or it can be a lot...

OH!!! The worst words any knifemaker can hear! I learned long ago, when dealing with a client who keeps adding/subtracting things from the order.....just tell them up front that at XXXXX point (you choose when the point is) in the build, there are not more changes.

Generally prior to heat treat is the answer. Filework will usually NOT cause a blade to warp in heat treat, unless you are not doing something else you should be. That being said, you COULD TRY to do filework after heat treat, but that is just self inflicted pain that is totally unnecessary. ;)

Of the 3 mentioned, waterjet is the only way to go in my opinion. With any heat based cutting method on the steel types used for blade, you have to deal with a "heat affected" zone, that can range from about .020" to .125" or more. Whatever it ends of being, it's something that must be dealt...

OK... Mr DenseHead has more questions! :) So.... you place these on the magchuck...... and are the pieces/parts your grinding get placed on top the parallels? Or, do the parallels just need to be somewhere/strategically on the chuck to change the magnetics of the chuck? Is it obvious yet...

Standard pole chuck spacing is 1/4" or more between the like colored lines, and Fine Pole chucks are 1/8" OR LESS. Grizzly calls the one in the link I posted.... a "Dense Pole" chuck. If I ever need another, I think I'm going to give one of those a whirl. Hey Ted... I need some...