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I have one that I believe to be one of the originals, Its sterile and I bought it back in the early 90s or late 80s. Got it at a gun show from a Class III dealer that told me they were govt over runs. Its in the original blue net sock it came in.

Im finally am getting some decent grinds on my folders but try to do a swedge and just mess up the blade. Any tips tricks or etc ? thanks ! Dave

I guess I could make it a frame lock with scales on the thin side and just do it like I would a normal liner lock but not go all the way through on the frame lock side. That would probably solve my whole issue. thanks guys ! Dave

Making my first frame lock and forgot to drill the stop pin. I drilled blade for a 5/32 stop like normal when I realized that I cant go about it the same way. I cant drill a 5/32 hole through blade and both "liners" because they are the scales and liner this time. So now I need a 5/32 barrel...

and OH...I WILL NOT buy from bandsawblades direct. The rape you for shipping ! $18 for lowest shipping of one blade !!!!

Ive been using the 10/14 V blades and the thinnest TI I cut is .050 but havent cut much lately.I ll go up to the 18 tooth 1/2 with .020 blade and try that. BUT.. i'd never broke one in before. Never heard of it :)

I have a 4x6 HF bandsaw . Mostly used to rough cut stock out of knife steel and occasionally so thin TI. I spent $36 on the last diemaster2 blade and it was trashed in 1.5 blades. Is there another blade I can use that is a good price but last longer on normal steel cuts ? Just not happy with the...

I just bought one and have barely used it and 1" worth of teeth are gone in one spot and several others over the length of blade. Probably from cutting TI but Im done with them. Cost too much to not last longer than they do. Dave

Amboyna is always my favorite. Need to get some pieces big enough for scales not pens. Dave

Ok , I ll send it to HT first once I get it down to a dimes thickness. THANKS Dave

My piece of stabilized amboyna burl broke at a screw hole as I was putting it together to completion. CA finish would bond the entire handle as one like a clear coat of a bar table. Dave

a lot of people use something like this and its a lot cheaper ! http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-direct-drive-bench-top-disc-sander-43468.html

with or without motor ?

Download a drill bit chart and you ll be able to see the sizes on each side of the size your trying to ream too.

do a search on CA finish on pens and you ll see how they do it on a lathe and a pen. Very similar process. I ve done it before on pens and it can turn out incredible !

I am making a combat type blade and want to serrate the top for rope cutting. Its about .200 thick blade. I have done them before on single edged hardened blades but never from scratch. I need help starting them out. How deep etc etc... thanks Dave

I tried "junker" :biggrin: today and did 8- 10 sec cuts and 5 darkens. Checked it and it darkened fine but didnt cut worth poop !!! So I got out my etch-O-matic used 2 10 sec applications and the etch came out perfect !!! Something to do with my home made etcher ...its not cutting. Hmm

I was only doing a couple. SO I just need to do it more and lift the pad in between and move it around. What fluid are ya'll using ? Im going to use SC-44 next time. THANKS !!!

High Temperature Tools and Refractory website doesnt even load properly.

Yes it was Ernie. Couldnt remember his name. I bulit mine like Chris Crawfords also. Are you etching SS ? or tool ?