Search results

Well your guard looks just right.

Jim, Really a nice knife. If you can make this you can you can make a slip joint! I read somewhere that the reason medieval armor was polished was to resist rust. Worked then works now. Jay

Very nice! Good choice of materials and execution. Is this the knife you were working on when you questioned whether Loveless was nuts?

Robert, First rate great design and execution! These are addictive, but the feeling accomplishment is worth the time spent. Jay

You'll find there are a number of options to build your own grinder. Midwest knifemakers supply sells plans and parts for a no weld grinder. I chose Polar Bear Forge's GIB (grinder in a box) frame kit, 1/2" plate cut to shape with most holes. I'm happy with it and building it was satisfying. Or...

I'd look at the WIP subforum. There's a tutorial on how to make a knife with basic tools, hand power drill, files, etc. But, if you want to invest some money, you'll need a drill press, belt grinder, and a lot of sandpaper.

Hey thanks Stew! Pretty good looking knife! Ha! Jay

Boss: Can non-registered viewers see the full pictures? Stew I agree with you 100% the full pictures are far superior to the thumbnails. So I opened a Flickr acct. Let's see if I can post a full picture. If so, this is a knife I made several years ago, No.2...

I've noticed that the ratio of visitors to members is often two to one. I've done posts using what I assume are thumbnails of larger photos. Can visitors see or enlarge the thumbnails by clicking on them? If not, it seems like those, like me, who don't know how to use Photobucket, or the like...

Welcome to Knifedogs. Great good forum, friendly folks and lots of info.

Really nice! Great patterns and mirror finish! Nice white tail logo! Jay

This grind height calculator "http://bimjo.com/free/widget.html" is very helpful.

Kent, My suggestion to get A2 may be bad advice if you intend to do heat treat without a heat treating oven. Others here will know better than I about whether you could treat it using a magnet, etc. But, if you're new to this I'd suggest getting flat ground O1, removing the scale with a platten...

Are you going to do stock removal or forge? If I were doing stock removal I'd get an air quench steel and surface ground like A2. It's not too expensive and doesn't warp.

A little more food for thought. There is a XLS spreadsheet program on Knifedogs Dogs. If you search under grind height calculator you should be able to find it. It uses three variables. 1) thickness of stock. 2) width of edge you want to grind to ( eg. 1/32") and 3) the diameter of the wheel...

Try Bruce Bumps sub-forum here for an example of the brass rod. He uses one when he solders his guards in his WIP/tutorials.

Well...I scrape as much solder off as i can with a brass rod that I've ground to a flat angle then sand and buff. The solder is soft relative to the other metals and buffing smoothes the solder blending it to the joint.

Get the largest you can afford. I have a 10" and would like a 14".

I'm not sure what you're asking. Have you soldered the joint, or are you seeking advice on how to solder?

I think whomever is lucky enough to get this in the KITH ought to feel fortunate! Were you going to keep the hole in the cutting edge as is? It's a very complicated knife,handle material, C guard. It will be great looking! Jay