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Good to see you back at it Raymond! I like everything about that one, it all flows together perfectly. You have not lost your touch, that much is certain....:)

I forged this blade around 2 years ago, during my experiments with achieving a 'wolfstooth' weld. The wolfstooth is often seen on viking era spears and seaxes, which this knife is based on, though more Saxon than viking... I heat-treated the blade, then laid it aside, and promptly forgot about...

This started as a billet end that looked just big enough to forge something out of... one should never let good steel go to waste. The blade is 1084/15n20 twist, wrought iron, and a W1 edge, 2 5/8" long. The handle is some very nice boxwood I traded for last year, sheath has bronze...

Due to the relatively high manganese content of Aldo's 1084 steel (.803%, as opposed to .35% in his 1095), I have to respectfully disagree with this statement: From my own limited testing, there is no discernible gain in using a very fast quench (brine, parks 50) with this 1084. Canola oil is...

Yeah, 203e has very little carbon and about 3% nickel, while 15n20 has about .7% carbon and 2% nickel. Theoretically, the 203e should be a bit brighter in the etch than 15n20, but 15n20 will hold an edge and the 203e will not... I've used it recently in some composite blades where it was...

My reasoning for soaking it after the handle is completed is, oily surfaces do not epoxy together well...:) you could do it after the handle is shaped and epoxied, but before final finishing and polishing. You want it close to final shape, as the oil does not penetrate very deeply, despite...

I use a good bit of horn for handles, both buffalo and other horns. I personally think most of the problems associated with horn are problems common with most if not all natural handle materials. Working horn with a belt sander is a lesson in just how bad it smells (think burning hair with a...

The mark makes me think of Wilkinson swords out of the UK, and the pakkawood makes me think of the 1980's... not a lot of help, but....

I do like the way it turned out, though the real reason for using the corby, my tang was about 1/16" too short to effectively peen and get the handle length I wanted.... I bought 2 sizes of corbys, a special bit for seating them, a threading die, and took 2 weeks longer to finish the knife than...

That knife has some serious presence, I can only imagine it would in the hand also....

My thoughts exactly, one of the primary reasons to use copper is the fact that it does tarnish and patina so easily. My suggestion is to let it go for a month or two, and see if the patina doesn't grow on you... over that time, it will go through several color phases, when it hits one you like...

I have a few changes in mind for my next attempt.... there is too much curve to the edge of the blade as it joins the handle, it messes up the flow of the knife... I suspect I need thinner leather for the sheath, I probably could have used leather half as thick.... I'm not happy with the...

I've always wanted to make a Scandinavian style knife and finally got around to it... The blade is W2 sandwiched with wrought iron, not quite 4 inches long, handle is masur birch. Thanks for looking.

They were 6-40 threads.... I bought the corbys from Jantz. Here's what I used one for, hard to tell from the pics but it is a laminated puukko from W2 and wrought iron....

Some of what I've been up to lately... Blade made of 2 opposing twists of 1084 and 203e, framed with 203e, framed with W1, 7 5/16" long, 1 5/16" wide, .29" thick. Handle is 5400 year old bog oak, sheath is leather with bronze fittings and brass rivets and rings. Overall length is 13 7/16"...

In places like Great Britain, where locking folders are not lawful to carry, I suspect they sell very well. In my limited experience, those with a more primitive old-time look, natural materials, and carbon or damascus steel, sell very well to the right crowd... but will have the average...

I say go for it! Dykem will last longer than sharpie marks. A word of advice, leave a flat down the center of the blade, and slowly push your grind to it, removing it with your finest belt during your last grinding phase. Make two, and use the best for the commission....:) Good luck.

These are definitely not 6-32.... I'll be visiting my machinist friend tomorrow and let him have a look. Only if it works, wall e...:)

Thank you sir.