Search results

I push the lockbar out about 3/8" from liner and heat it with a propane flame.

If you guys will just heat the end of the lockbar that engages the blade lock face with a torch to orange/cherry red and let it cool, it will oxidize the lockbar edge and stop any sticking issues.

I have used MSC1 from Marking Methods for 20 years. Still using the same bottle of it. Shelf life has not affected it. Built my own etcher. Used higher voltage to get deeper etch.

"How To Make Folding Knives", by Ron Lake, Frank Centafonte, and Wayne Clay.

Your thermocouple should be in the top center of the oven chamber.

blade holder You do not have to get exotic for a holder while you grind. Just get a piece of bar stock and build one of these.

I cut lines in the G10 with my foredom grinder and then I used riffler files to open up the cuts and flare them out. Then I hand sanded each cut to smooth it out. Then a quick glassbead over the whole handle.

The blade length is 4". I have been making knives 32 years. I have been a member of the Knifemakers Guild since 1989.

This is the last flipper I made. Some damascus and file work with a D2 blade.

Have not posted here in a while. Made 3 of these for a customer. 3" blade of D2 flat ground. Blue G10 for handles and .065 ti for liners.

After reading some of the comments in this thread I did a little investigating on my own. I have been making folders a long time during my 32 years of making knives. I have made linerlocks for 11 years and have used the materials mentioned here. I used a very accurate micrometer to measure my...

You should add another quench medium to the three you mentioned. A brine solution. Water is a quick quench medium, but the water can vaporize off the steel so fast that the bubbles created can hinder cooling by forming pockets of air on the blade. The brine solution reduces this by not...

For anything threaded, the thread is the weakest point. As for shearing a screw, whether it is threaded into the blade or the thumb stud, come on. Just how much force do you think you are putting on the stud when you open it. You are more likely to shear it when you catch it on something.

3 1/2" blade of D2, flat ground. Stainless bolsters. OD green G10 for handles. A little file work, some pins in the handle spacer, and a little carving on the handles.

This one is off to Les Robertson for the Blade Show. Blade is D2, flat ground, 4 1/16" long Bolsters are 303 stainless steel with glass bead finish Handles and back spacer are G10 Ti clip and liners Lanyard with pewter skull bead

Man, is this a good and long thread. I feel like as a maker of knives for 32 years I should have some input here but I do not know exactly how to say what I am thinking. I think some makers try to put it to the buyers and then there are some makers who bend over backwards to give the buyer his...

nylon insert You should really try it on your folders. It can be unscrewed anytime and not lose friction. You don't have to keep putting anything on it every time it is unscrewed. I use contact cleaner on the pivot screw threads to get all the oil out off it before I put the screw in the...

I also posted it on the CK&G forum.

pivot screw Here is what I do for pivot screws. I use an 8-32 pivot screw and I put a nylon insert in it to stop it from turning. Make a jig block with 8-32 threads tapped in it. Drill a hole for a #51 drill perpendicular to the threads so that it will allow you to drill a hole 3 threads...

Pivot screw redo Here is the Fat Boy with pivot screw countersunk lower and the face of the screw has been turned down.