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Nice job looks great. Dale

You may try soaking overnight in vinegar to soften the scale, I have good luck with it, still have to grind quite a bit but it goes better.

I am a deer hunter, so I have used my knives for what they are made for, and have changed some details from my earlier models, for my preference. So what I like is a drop point, 3-1/2 - 4" long, 1/8" thick at the spine, and 1"- 1-1/4" wide at the racasso, full flat ground to .020 thick behind...

Frank Hunter, to answer your question, there is a tool to do this, but if you have a drill press, or even a hand drill clamped in the vice, you can round the ends very easy, just chuck your pin in the drill, turn it on , and take a small file and round the pin to the shape you want, then use...

Looks great Native. Dale

I am not familiar with using W2, but I use D2 quite often, and if edge holding is an important factor to you, D2 is an excellent steel for edge holding, but as stated above it can be a little brittle, so I would not use it on a large chopper knife, but for hunting, skinning knives and EDC knives...

I have played around with the vacum pump and and old pressure canner pot. I think the stabilizing chemicals are the big drawback, I used Minwax Wood Hardener with just fair results. Would like to play some more using some other stabilizing agent.

Welcome to Knife Dogs, and thank you for your military service! Dale

Thanks Darrin Dale

Where is a good place to buy cardboard boxes suitable for boxing knives? You know like the factories do. Dale

You may try you-tube, Turley Knives did have a video on how he does his convex grinds. Hope this helps Dale

I use alot of orange G10, and have this same problem when buffing, never while sanding. My thought is maybe getting to hot from either dull belts, or high belt speed. You maybe able to hand sand with your highest grit to remove the streaks. Another thing to try is a wash down with acetone after...

Nice job, on the blog and knives. I do something similar on my website. Dale

I have a friend who does convex grinds exclusively, and he starts them on the platen, rocking the blade from edge to spine, starting at the tip and working back. Doing it this way he can control the amount of convex. He uses the slack belt only to blend everything in. I am not a convex guy, but...

Stainless and all other air hardening steels I go down to .015-.020, unless it is a long thin fillet knife, then I heat treat then grind. Oil quench steels get .030-.040, this allows for cleanup of the decarb, and also helps to prevent warpage.

Good looking knife, and sheath too.

Corian is easy to work, it is a little on the brittle side, so be careful when drilling and cutting. I finish corian to at least 600 grit then buff lightly. Just progress up through the grits until you have the finish that you want. Dale

What I would do on a handle like that, is continue on up in grit, to at least 400 on your bader and small wheel, then clamp the knife in a vice, and get some strips of paper or use worn J-flex belts cut in narrow strips in 600 or 800 grit, what ever grit you want to finish at, and give it a good...

On stainless and other air hardening steels, I have gone as thin as .010 with no problems. You will be fine.

The 11" piece might make a small camp knife, or a Bowie knife. On the Bowie you could go with a stick tang to gain some blade length, using antler or block of wood for the handle, you could do the same on the camp knife, but I like the added strength of the full tang on a knife that may be used...