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Wow, nice stuff so far guys. Mine is done, well mostly. Sitting in between the last couple coats of Tru Oil now. Will work on the sheath tomorrow night after work. No problem making the 8/5 deadline.

That sucks Randy! I was hoping to have a chance at one of your knives! :)

Still in :). Should have pics soon. Trying a couple new things with this knife, hope it turns out well.

The blue mike, go with the blue!!

Hmmmm, might have to get in on this. I really like this post-apoc/zombie stuff. Gonna do a little research and decide.

Awesome! I'm glad that you've found a job for that knife :).

Thanks guys, I will do my utmost to not disappoint. :)

Thank you, I hope it does well in the raffle.

Hey folks. Just thought I would share a piece I just finished. This knife and sheath was donated as a fundraiser item for the 2013 Relay For Life event in Metropolis, IL. This is, by far, one of my best knives yet. Here is the rundown: Blade: Jantz Pattern #31 in D2 with their satin...

Mark, I would like to be allowed in again this year. I participated last year with a "kit" knife...the only real kit part of my knives are the blades. I've started using the Jantz Pattern line of blades that are ground in-house in their facility in Oklahoma...rather than imported. Very nice...

Weatherman- I see what you are talking about with the border stamps looking off. The center of the bottom of the stamp is higher than the rest and allows the cut edge of the leather to stand up. I would take a modeling spoon tool and bevel them back down while the leather is still cased...

A lot of guys buy kydex press foam from knifekits.com and the homesite, usaknifemaker.com Most any thick, closed cell (not like egg crate foam) will work. Some guys on lean budgets will get bedroll mats and cut them into squares, doubling them for the right thickness. Make sure it is...

Here is a link I have bookmarked for a maul: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15515 And here is a link to the plastic used, it's UHMW rod 2-3" in diameter. http://www.interstateplastics.com/Natural-Uhmw-virgin-Rod-UHMNV.php?sku=UHMNV&vid=201301291004-8p&diameter=3.000&dim2=1

From my understanding from many searches on the leatherworker.net forum they're fairly simple to construct. Easiest construction would start with a long carriage bolt, head down and assembled from the bottom of the handle to the top. From the bolt head would be a flat washer, then the handle...

Weatherman- Thanks! As for the weight, there are many different weights of mauls that leather workers use. From my googling, it seems that 16oz is a good weight to start with. So, I'm going to give it a try and if I think it needs a bit more, say increasing to 20oz (another good size), I will...

I'll probably turn another one soon with a channel. Got around to measuring it today and putting it on the scale, here are the specs: 9.5" long 16 oz on the dot (I don't know how I managed that!) Also, I went ahead and flame tempered the work face with a torch and lightly toasted the handle...

Thanks for all the kind words! My only concern from the get go was the work face getting really dinged up and having chip outs. I figured ash would help against this. From what I've read the flame hardening should also create an even harder work face. But, if it does happen, I had thought...

After doing some basket weave stamping on a test piece of horse hide, I decided that it was finally time to retire my crappy little wooden mallet (hobby lobby mallet, ultra light) and get with the program on making a maul. I'm low on funds this week so I wanted to keep it as low $ as...

That is super nice and will make an excellent heirloom piece. Have you put together any tutorials on how you do some of the pieces you do? If not I would love to see some before you draw things to a close.

Thanks...just what I could pick up from my limited knowledge and experience thus far.