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Hi Fred, yes the AEB-L is stainless. (Professionally HT'd and with cryo to 61 HRC) The FC is working, although it is not quick. But, as the picture shows I am getting some strange patterns.

Good day all. I'm hoping to get some info/insight about this etch on some AEB-L. HRC 61 .070 thick Sanded to 400 grit, not cleaned with anything, just wiped clean with paper towel. Etched in FC at 60 degrees for 30 minutes Rubbed down with steel wool lightly, although the pattern was pre-wipe...

I'll have to investigate them. Thanks.

Love the top pattern a bunch. If you don't mind me asking: What are you using to draw these? Scott

If you want just an awesome screw in light bulb, check out Cree bulbs. The big box stores have them. I am using a 75 watt spot in one of the cheap clamp on reflector lamps at my grinder and I swear I am outside on a sunny day. Scott

60 grit cross hatch and swirls, clean truly well, Gflex and spring clamps. Hardest part is waiting on them to cure. ;-)

Wishing you major success ! Scott

Oh yes Dennis, hand sanding is a mess. One little hesitation and .... Again. I do use Rhynowet paper and a backer with either WD40 or Windex as wetting agent.

Ktip Steel AEB-L .110 HRC 61-62 OAL 9 7/8" Cutting edge 5 7/8 Handle stabilised Box Elder dyed burl with TruOil Brass Corby bolts and GFlex .010 behind edge @ 18 degrees Finished to 400 grit

Handles? If it can use suitable materials.

I have used a large step drill. I believe mine goes from 1/4" to 1 3/8". As long as the metal has not been heat treated it works well. Use a drill press! If the largest size on the drill is too large, I've used the size I want drilling half way from both sides. Some clean up is needed if the...

https://usaknifemaker.com/shop-categories/blade-blanks.html

Another tip: Don't run your belt speeds too high when using the small wheels. You'll burn out the bearings.

I have both a flat platen and a 10" wheel. I use the 10" wheel primarily for roughing the blanks and odds and end jobs. I opted to get a small wheel set up with as many sizes that I could afford, some rubber, some steel. I use the rubber ones the most. Probably use the 1/2" and 3/4" mostly.

I agree, PSA disc paper is a real chore to change out. Plus the glue lets go in a cold shop when sitting for a bit. I keep small spring clamps around the outer edge during its down time. I've feathering glue and Rhinowet, but nothing course enough at present and what I do have, 240, 400, etc. is...

Sounds like I should go with rubber. My disc is anodized aluminum, flat and runs true and well balanced (from a knife making supply company). I've been using PSA discs that are fairly thick paper, 80 and 120 grits. Since it is just being used for flattening scales I don't have a need for finer...

I'll probably pick up one of the rubber backers, but I can't understand how it will help. Seems like the soft backing will possibly let the sand paper "bunch up" or warp slightly just ahead of the leading edge of the scale.

Good to know Randy, thanks.

Hi John, thanks for the response. My disc is flat, no bevel. A trapezoid would be better than the front and rear of the scale material ending up smaller than the middle. I have tried light pressure and different hand positions, even different orientation/locations on the disc to no avail. The...

Hello all. I have a 9 inch disc sander, variable speed and I am looking for some reasons and answers to flattening scale material, etc. on it. I seems that I always have a non-flat outcome using it, in that the front and rear of the material always has more taken off it. Not flat. I've tried...