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Oze, on both slipjoints that I posted the bolsters are silver soldered on to the liners. After they are soldered and shaped to the liners the scales are added and shaped. After many try fittings, the liners with bolsters and scales (bone, wood micarta, whatever) are hammered on to opposing sides...

Oze, if you are able to make those fine knives, you should have no trouble making a slipjoint!

Thanks C Craft! I noticed, when I read the WIP that I re-posted, above, I said I would post a picture of liners that were relieved using an electro etcher rather than a mill. But, I didn't. Here's some pictures of the next slipjoint that I made using the method described in the WIP. However...

Hello! I haven't made a slipjoint in a while. But here's a link to a WIP I did years ago. If the link doesn't post correctly you should be able to find it by searching my posts. I would add two comments. First, if you don't have a surface grinder make sure you use "precision" or flat-ground...

Very nice! A clean execution of a design that looks simple (Lanny's Clip). Just try making one! You'll appreciate this knife!

Buy precision ground or flat ground stock. I don't have a surface grinder and haven't needed one as long as I've used stock that is pre-ground. I won't use anything else. A2 is fairly inexpensive and makes a decent knife and spring should you choose to make a slip-joint.

I agree with Wayne. I think a KBAC 27D is what I purchased five years ago and it served me well. They aren't inexpensive, at least $350.00 (2008 price), but aside from the NEMA 4 enclosure you will be able to use 110 or 220 volt current. I forgot how it works now, but if you start with 110v and...

Very Nice! Thank you for posting! I like the way the blades fit the handle, so there are no sharp edges where the spine is exposed! Jay

Daniel, You asked about using 1098 for the spring and blade. I've never used anything but air quenched steel and don't about 1098, but I think it is oil quenched and may be more susceptible to warping if you do your own heat treating. I think many current commercial slip joints are 1098, maybe...

Daniel, Take a look at Bill Vining's tutorial on building a Texas Toothpick, posted on this forum. I found this very helpful. He show's the proper geometry for a half stop slip joint. The point I made about grinding to the "circle" may be clearer. The reason I mark the circle is that I start...

At the outset, congratulations for taking on a slip joint. they are frustrating at times, challenging but always very satisfying, in the end. But while I like your design, aesthetically, I don't think it will work. When you close the knife the spring will be raised above the liner/scales. The...

Todo10' Thank you for responding! Not to be a pest about this, but maybe some one could add "Sticky" posts with instructions for posting photos, etc. Here is a link...I think I posted it OK to the CMP test forum. The posts are not archived meaning that they are deleted every so often...

John, This is a really excellent knife. Thank you for posting it! Jay

Another forum similar to Knife Dogs, the "Civilian Marksmanship Forum" forum ("forums.theCMP.org/index.php") has a sub forum called "Test Forum". The purpose is to let members test posting pictures, links, videos, etc. I think it is important to post pictures as opposed to thumbnails. Its my...

C Craft, Yes! Whatever doesn't have tape on it will etch. And scotch tape, the shiny kind (probably any plastic tape would work), is a resist so the etcher won't remove anything covered by it. After a while the heat of etching builds up and the glue begins to let go. I'd practice on a piece of...

I used scotch tape as th resist and cut the pattern when the tape was on the blade. Then I removed the tape where I wanted the etch. I wish I had used colored tape. It would have been easier to see the pattern I was cutting with the exacto knife. Once masked with the resist, I set the etcher to...

Making a clean nail nick with home shop equipment was daunting for me. If the nail nick looks cheesy, well... Anyway what I did was use my drill press with a Dremel cutoff wheel. The important thing is to have your blade firmly clamped in a drill press vice and make sure that the vice is clamped...

I used 3/32 303 stainless for the pins. I gently peened one side and that worked OK. I wimped out on the other side and used ultra thin super glue. The fit was tight enough before gluing that it was holding without glue. But I glued them anyway.

Very Nice! I'm not sure what to call the blade shape either but I like it! Sort of like a beefy wharncliffe with a curved cutting edge? Jay.

That's an interesting question that manufacturers of the M1 Grarand struggled with for years. Most of the rifle was steel that was parkerized but the gas tubes which hung under the barrel were stainless steel and would not accept parkerizing. Many formulas were tried to "blacken" the stainless...