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I use super glue a lot for temporary fixturing, easiest way I have found to separate parts ( assuming they are not fragile material) is to put them in the freezer for a bit and then drop them onto a "hard surface". I put "hard surface" in quotes, because it's entirely relative to the parts...

Prayer sent, I hope you are on the way to recovery by now.

Thank you very much, guys! It turned out well for my first I think, but leaves room for improvement too, which is the way it should be. Among other things, the nail pull extends past the start of the clip, which is a little awkward looking and dosent work very well with a swedge, so I rounded...

I've mentioned knife making to a couple of guys who then said that they were knifemakers too, those have been the most annoying conversations I've had about the subject. One told me I didn't forge right because I didn't bounce my hammer off the anvil every other swing, and that my 20" forge was...

I've been carrying it for about a week, so I guess it's finished...A2 blade and spring with 410 liners and 416 bolsters and pins, zebrawood scales, etch-relieved liners and has a half open stop. I'm a little embarassed that the pins are showing in both bolsters, but can probably forgive myself...

Welcome! Just tried my hand at a slip joint myself, and now i finally know what reading glasses are for. Lol. And those tiny little ball peen hammers...

I got one over 20 years ago from Henry A. Evers stamp, it has held up very well.

Keep trying the fixture tempering and increase the counter-bend, as a last resort you can try upping the temp by 10 degrees or so and take a small hit on hardness. Some blades are stubborn but if you're stubborn AND patient you can usually get them straight.

No whining about cut fingers!!!! (Except to your wife, if she still has the patience for it.)

Very, very nice. I particularly like the file work.

Could one not use a cone-shaped grinding point in a drill press, and fixture the blade in the drilling vise? Its not good for the drill press, of course, but I bet some of us have done worse...

Welcome, and thank you for your service!

Welcome! Looks like your first heat treat went well...the colors come off easy. When the foil sticks, that doesn't come off so easy!

Cool idea! Individual pieces only, or are group shots acceptable also?

Thank you both!

I took a couple of years off from knife making and haven't been very active here, so I thought I would re-introduce myself now that I'm getting back into the shop. Looking forward to trying some new things, including my first folder, and should have a few questions as that project takes shape...

Very nicely done as always, I think I got a peek of this one in an earlier thread but I enjoyed looking at it again.

This entire thread is based on a disagreement and/or misunderstanding on a semantic level. Somewhat like your use of the terms "stock reduction" and "forged" to distinguish between different methods of blade production. "Stock removal" is the terminology I use to describe the shaping of a knife...

The alloy banding becomes more visible when the steel is cycled such that carbon precipitates to it to form carbides. The carbon can be made to move back where we want it with the right heat treatments, but most of the other alloying elements and impurities that cause the banding are pretty much...

What people are calling slag inclusions in modern steel is not imaginary, it is mislabeled alloy banding. I have a bar of 1075 in my shop as I speak that is full of it, and will show a nice grainy pattern if subjected to a lot of low-temperature cycling and then hardened and etched. It is...