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Did you try reversing the polarity? I seem to remember the carbide depositing better when the part is positive, and the carbide is negative.

Hmm, I don't remember ever publishing that schematic! The capacitor helps, and the resistor is just there to drain the capacitor.

Knives are works of art. I, personally, am a proponent of leaving them the way the maker intended, and buying something else that suits your needs, if that one doesn't. It's your to do with as you wish of course, but one wouldn't buy the Mona Lisa then go about crossing here eyes, because...

I think that by the time you go to that much trouble, you may as well just build a better grinder... ;)

No, it will not run as nice and smooth. My KMG does not, and I spent countless hours tinkering with it to make it better! It's pretty good though, just not as good as direct drive. FWIW, I run a VFD on my KMG, but I still use the pulley system. And yes, I do still have a KMG, and a Hardcore...

I'd just keep using pulleys, it's less efficient, but if you have enough HP, who cares? Remote operation on the teco is easy too, it's all in the manual. I used to use one of those myself.

Co2 you can do relatively inexpensively. ($1500 - $15,000) A Yag like mine, or Fiber, is still 20K+ !!!

I spend a lot of money on tools. My philosophy is simple. Work smart, not hard.

Good thing they are almost free, and take about 10 minutes to make! Build 2-4 of them next time, and it'll probably only take 20 minutes, since you can duplicate procedures. Ought to be good for the next few years then, for $20, and less than an hours time!

Never had any trouble with mine, and I used it for a few years! I have a laser now, so I haven't used mine in a couple of years. Fortunately, they are cheap!

Many of the tumbling compounds have rust inhibitors in them. Eliminates that Johnny on the spot issue. C & M Topline is where I get mine. With the fluid I use, if I ever get any flash rust, it's a sign that I need to clean out my tank, and start fresh. I am almost due for another 5 gallon...

I crown the drive, and tracking. Both on my Übergrinders, and on my KMG.

I always buy cobalt when I can, with a small H value. Depends on what is on sale. Honestly, once you switch to form taps, with a TapMatic, and the right drill, it's just easy. Almost any tap will work.

I went to a crowned wheel on all or my grinders, and it works way better for me than a flat wheel did.

Not sure how you would make this work on a Hardcore, Laurence. It's a 2 wheel grinder, with no tool arm, so the drive wheel, and the idler have to be sized appropriately to give you the proper circumference. You can't even switch between an 8", 10", or 12" wheel without also changing the idler.

I have 2400 sq feet, and a 400 or so foot loft. I need double that!

Those are real nice for laser parts!

I have, but only once, and I didn't like it. I may have had a bad vendor too. It's tough to find good vendors. I think I am on waterjet guy #6

Then you need to re evaluate your procedure!

They can get close to a zero draft angle, but have to run SLOW. We pay by the minute, so price increases exponentially. ($8 part becomes $24...) Knifemakers are notoriously cheap and are not willing to pay for that. Nor should they, since you have to clean it up anyhow! In my world at least...