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Necker Destruction Test. Round Two I just heat treated a batch of neckers and didn't like the grind on one so I decided to test it to destruction. Blade steel is 3/32 O1 heat treated in my oven, quenched in peanut oil, and tempered three times at 400 Here is what the knife looks like all...

Blotchy Etch in 1084 (With Pics) Since an etch will show what's happening inside the blade, I think this is more of a heat treat issue than poor etch. My Observations: Very cloudy and splotchy etch on 1084. Possible bad heat treat? My Process: Last night I heat treated a fairly thin (too...

I decided to challenge myself to create a handle with no visible pins and this is what I came up with Of course, it has pins - 7 of them: Two in each bolster and three 1/8" pins hidden 1/8" deep in the Jade G11. With the mitered (dovetail) bolsters, this handle will stay put for...

Last night I was forging and noticed a bit of twist in my blade. Deciding to learn from experience and not duplicate my mistakes I made a quick and ugly wooden anvil/mallet from scraps I had on hand. The mallet is from a pecan limb I had lying around. I know it is not the prettiest tool...

Chef knife is 8.25" long, 2" wide, and 3/32" at the thickest part with a full distil taper Pearing knife is 4" long, 1" wide, and also 3/32" with distil taper Both have O1 steel hardened to 60/61 Wood is Smokey Quilted Maple Bolsters and corby bolts are all Nickel Silver Both have full flat...

I am in the process of finishing my first Gyuto (chef) and Pearing knife and did them both with a full flat grind with distil taper, but would like to try something different with my next kitchen blades I would very much like to practice traditional Japanese grinds and need to be educated...

I have read where the forging requires multiple quench cycles but haven't read anywhere about the need for the multiple quenches for stock removal. No doubt that's because before now 52100 HAD to be forged. But thanks to Aldo, that's not true any more. Suppose I got some thin 52100 from...

I am wanting to do a run of several kitchen knives. Not that I have any particular fondness of them, but it is one way to make a knife without feeling compaled to make a blasted sheath. Aldo has both 52100 and 1095 ground to .110/.120 in stock and I'm on the fence as to which to get. I...

I converted my kiln to a HT oven as shown in this thread. It has done well so far at getting up to 1500 degrees but I asked more than it could give today. I was in the process of HT'ing my first stainless and the heating element broke at around 1700 degrees. Honestly, I figured it would...

On most production knives I have noticed that the "Chef" style knife in 6-8" are around 3/16 to 1/4" thick at the spine. But on custom knives I've noticed they are 3/32 or less at the spine, even on the larger blades. Is that just so the maker doesn't have to remove as much steel, or are...

I was fortunate enough to buy a Paragon A88B pottery kiln at auction for $20. It was in good shape, but when I hooked it to my newly ran 40 Amp 220 circuit, I found that it took several hours to get near useable temps. If I recall, after 3 hours, it was only at 600C. Here is a pic of the...