Advise a Newbie (Finishing Wood Handles)

J

jmackle

Member
After watching you guys create artwork for the past few years, i've decided to give it a go. I've been starting small with refinishing old blades, particularly some Old Hickory blades I picked up at a flee market in Canton, TX.

I've not done wood scales very successfully before. How would you advise I finish some walnut scales? I like natural glow on handles that I see you guys produce. Not fully matte and not overly glossy.

Thanks in advance.

jmackle
 
Is this a wipe on/wipe off thing? Or do I need to sand it down between applications or hit it with a buffing wheel?
 
I used danish oil on the one wooden knife I did after sanding to 2000 grit. Was baby smooth and being myrtle wood it had a natural shimmer due to its grain. Came out a nice shimmering satin finish. But Im still learning all the little subtle things that make or break a finish.
 
I've only used Danish oil so far and have been happy with the results. I used a satin varathane to finish it.
 
Ed Caffery has a video on his website about using Tru-Oil. I've got a bottle, haven't tried it yet, but that's what I'm using on my next wood handle.
 
Different wood need different finish. But Im growing fond of danish oil. Tung oil too often darkens and obscures details.
 
danish oil finish or Fornby's tung oil finish both work well, both require an 8 hr or more between coats. had the best luck using 0000 steel wool between coats. i sometimes use a blend of mineral oil and white beeswax that leaves a soft satin finish. read the label closely, when they say 24 hours between coats, they mean it.
 
I use Linseed, Tung, and Tru Oil. I sand to 800, dampen the wood and let it dry. Rub it down with 0000 steel wool to remove any grain it raises. Do this 2 more times. When dry I hand rub a coat of the oil I'm using on it till it's dry to the touch. Let set for an hour, rub the shine off with 0000 steel wool. I do this 4 times. Now I hand rub 2 to 4 coats of the selected oil till dry. No steel wool in between these coats. Buff with a little turtle wax. Your now done. My favorite oil is Linseed.

rps20141106_231838.jpg
This one is American Black Walnut finished with Linseed Oil.

1372555252571.jpg

1372555422414_90.jpg
These are curly maple finished the same way. The second one had a Maple Majic treatment to darken it also.
 
TacticallySharp said:
I use Linseed, Tung, and Tru Oil. I sand to 800, dampen the wood and let it dry. Rub it down with 0000 steel wool to remove any grain it raises. Do this 2 more times. When dry I hand rub a coat of the oil I'm using on it till it's dry to the touch. Let set for an hour, rub the shine off with 0000 steel wool. I do this 4 times. Now I hand rub 2 to 4 coats of the selected oil till dry. No steel wool in between these coats. Buff with a little turtle wax. Your now done. My favorite oil is Linseed.

View attachment 53716
This one is American Black Walnut finished with Linseed Oil.

View attachment 53717

View attachment 53718
These are curly maple finished the same way. The second one had a Maple Majic treatment to darken it also.
Click to expand...

Nice tips there, George!!
 
59b5eb29190aefe1a41d4f921e77be19.jpg


950689e6b3b81843ef9345c40964cd3d.jpg


Heres the myrtle wood sanded to 2k and finished with danish oil
 
Burnishing has an effect on wood grain that sanding does not. Wood being a mass of fibers, in straight grain wood they are aligned, in burls they are twisted and lap over each other with all kinds of twist and turns. Burnish, after the rough sanding is complete, 120 grit. Use the edge of 10 to 12 ounce leather a brass rod works well. I use a brass rod first and follow with the leather edge. Burnishing brings out highlights in the wood that you will not see using other techniques. Try it the next time and see what comes about.

Fred
 
I too am a VERY newbie! I recently did a Walnut scale, stepkiddo was pleased, and am working on the attached maple scales... Not anywhere near perfect and it is about 2/3 complete give or take. My process is/was after scales were shaped to my satisfaction, sand with 200 grit; dampen and let dry a bit then apply a single coat of Minwax Golden Oak. When almost dry did light 200 grit followed by 3 coats, so far, of Neatsfoot oil. My plan is steelwool alternating with Neatsfoot oil. Will likely 'wax' with Howard citrus shield when satisfied!!
IMAG0566.jpg
 
Coming from a custom bow making background I've experimented with lots of finishing products.With many exotics your finish won't dry or harden and over the years I found 4 ways to do a professional finish.One is a sealer of superglue and then waxed,two is a 2 part finish called fullerplast ,three is good old lacquer the nice thing about it is its easy to touch up and four is my favorite and that's birchwoods True oil .
 
the easiest longest lasting finish would be water based polyurethane for floors. 90 min between coats, no odor, once dry you have a finish that will last a long time. i would get a few pieces of scrap wood and try your finishes there before putting a finish you haven't used before on a completed knife. true oils that are not mixed with hardeners will never completely dry. had a blade that i did in linseed oil that worked well until it sat in the truck on a hot day. the shiny smooth handle became a sticky oily mess.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top