Annealing damascus to be machined?

racjarrett88

Well-Known Member
I've made some 1095/15n20 damascus and 1080/15n20. What is the best method to anneal these so that I can mill them flat. I've ruined a few mills so I would like to learn the proper process. I don't have a surface grinder so that is out. Any advise on type of cutter to use and speeds would be appreciated as well. I'm guessing I should remove any scale with vinegar before milling? Thanks
 
I never put a mill to damascus that has not been thoroughly industrial spheroidized, but then I also work with O-1 and L6, which will laugh an evil laugh at any cutting tool unless it is thoroughly defanged. I say “industrial” to differentiate the serious operation from the makeshift bladesmithing spheroidizing I often use as well.

What I would do with the 1095 mix requires a rampable kiln. I would heat it to 1375F for about an hour and then decrease the temperature no more than 50F/hour until 850F-900F is reached. Doing this I have sent damascus out of my shop to be milled, drilled, threaded and cut and have been told that my steel was one of the few those folks have never had a damaged tool from.

This treatment will require some extra soak time to put the spheroids back into solution but it is well worth it for the machining benefits. Yes, of course entirely descale the pieces to be machined, vinegar or sodium bisulfate should work, but I would also lightly grind it clean afterwards as well.

If you don’t have a rampable kiln, you can cycle it many times around 1275F-1300F or hold it for an hour around 1280F, being careful not to let the magnet stop sticking and lose any gains by dissolving the spheroids. This method will make finer spheroidal carbides with less carbon out of play, and so may chatter a mill a little more than the full industrial schedule, but will still be far better than traditional anneals that leave the carbide in sheets which eat cutters alive.
 
Thanks Kevin just what I was looking for. You are the man. I do have an evenheat oven so I will do exactly as you say. Was hoping to meet you at blade but only your wife was at the table. I did get to hold a couple of your knives and they were the best feeling of any I held. Excellent handle design and beautiful work.
 
Thank you for the very kind words about my work, and the good feedback on the handles. If my wife is at the table you can probably get as many questions answered as if I were there, she has picked up an awful lot over the years and is doing more interaction for me in the knife business all the time. Since I will not do Facebook she is now my representative there with a cashenblades page (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cashen-Blades-Matherton-Forge/1420399098285823?sk=info&tab=page_info) she put together and runs.


On the steel mixes, you can use the ramping sequence but it can be overkill for eutectoid or hypoeutectoid mixes, I would try the makeshift method of cycling or simple subcritical soaking to keep the carbide that is there from sheeting, that will also save you some time and energy with the kilns.
 
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