Another new guy for you to teach (HT1084)

seider

seider

Well-Known Member
blade rough.jpg


I know I do not have the pin holes drilled yet still need to do alittle work to it and finish out the profile I have roughed the blade in going to make it look better and work just alittle more tomorrow at work. What is the best way to heat treat this? I have read the play by play on thread on here just seeing others ideas.
 
I do not have really anything I have a acetylene torch and a few map gas torches that is about it at this point. This is the first knife I have ever attemted. So I have got to this point bare bones I have a drill press a bench grinder and polisher in one and few files. I have just started with emory cloth to get were I am today. Gonna try and get all the grinding marks out get all the rough places also and drill holes for pins before HT.
 
I would look on ebay where you can find a basic thermocouple and display for about $30 that will go up to 1800F. Temperature crayons are about $15. table salt melts pretty close to right temp, another choice. I would use wood/charcoal for heat source, Parks 50 would be the best to quench, canola at 125F in a pinch. 4x36 belt sander from sears(less than $150 with 3 or 4 belts) will make life a lot easier, especially if you keep blade length less than 4". Look on this site and find a "How To" on draw filing, I was amazed how fast you can shape a blade.
 
Ok I can round up the stuff for a thermocouple I have a lot of experience with them. Thanks
For the help
 
I have seen austinizing and even tempering done with a rosebud tip on an acetylene torch judging the temperature by eye but this is the least accurate way of doing it. I would recommend that you build a gas forge as a heat source. Use the thermocouple and pyrometer to regulate the internal temperature. Check for austinization with a magnet. Note when the steel becomes non-magnetic and then get it just a little hotter. Stick with steels that don't need a long soak to get the carbon into solution. Learning how to spot the play of color across the steel, decalesence and recalesence, as the steel changes phase will also help. Both look the same but decalesence occurs with heating and recalesence on cooling. It's like a shaddow passes across the steel. It will brighten, dull just a little and brighten again as he iron crystals in the steel changes phase. I was able to spot it cooling, recalesence, before I was able to spot it heating. Observing in dim light helps. More forgiving steels like 1084 are good with this type of equipment.

Doug
 
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I have seen the "shadows " you talked about I have welded for about 10 years and have seen that plenty of times while heating up certian metals with a rose bud. I may just buld me a mini cheap forge for now for this knife.. So that I can get through everything and see what I need to improve on and before I start the next one I will have a belt sander built (2 x 72)
Then i will have allittle more control
 
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