Bandsaw Tracking?

Z

zbq

Well-Known Member
I just pulled the trigger on a used Milwaukee 6230N off of Ebay to use for profiling blades from bar stock among other things.
Got it for $123.00 including shipping.

I just got it today and the motor runs fine.
Trigger variable speed and guide rollers work fine too.

The only thing I can see that might be wrong is that the back side of the blade tracks pretty close to, and might even be rubbing the inside of the guard on one of the wheels. The other looks to be tracking fine.

Is there a tracking adjustment on these?
I can't seem to find anything in the manual about a tracking adjustment.

Here is a link to the Milwaukee website where you can see the manual in the pdf link at the bottom.

Thanks
 
The New Complete Guide to the Band Saw: Everything You Need to Know about the Most Important Saw in the Shop [Paperback]
By Mark Duginske.


This book and others this gentleman has written will tell you all you ever need to know about operating & adjusting Bandsaws, for Metal and woods.

His books have plenty of Fix it's in them, and are a must read before your next purchase.

Also I would say to start with a new blade. Bimetal 14tpi are the kind for cutting barstock, USA made.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
A brand new blade MAY solve your problem; you might also try putting new tires on, or removing and reversing the old tires.
 
Thanks for the replies. On further inspection, the blade that is on it doesn't appear to be a very high quality blade. The joint where the ends were welded is pretty rough and it "appears" that there might be a very tiny hairline crack next to the teeth where the two ends meet. I think Tracy sells some bandsaw blades, not sure what brand, but if Tracy is selling them, I am going to assume they are of good quality. What particular brand or blade material should I look for? I already know to look for 14 tpi thanks to the generous advice of Lawrence.

I'll try to look for the book as well.

Thanks for the help so far guys.
 
Bimetal, Bimetal, Bimetal, Lennox and Starrett, Are two brands I have always been very happy with.

I'm sure BossDog and his charming wife Beth will have a quality product.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives,com
 
Thanks for the info Lawrence.
I have found the bimetal blades on BossDogs website and am about ready to make a purchase.

One last question.

Regular tooth or Variable?

Is one better for certain types of cutting than the other?
 
The blades I have been getting for years were all Regular and you would be fine with those.

It appears that a Variable is for cutting softer gummy metals like Aluminum or Brass from Mark Duginske's Book Band Saw Handbook.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com

Laurence
 
Rule of thumb on TPI or teeth per inch. Try to have 3 teeth in the work at any one time.
I've found a really good deal on blades on ebay, 10 blades at a time can mix and match 18 or 20 tpi for 2.40 per blade with shipping. Dont have a link handy but will look.


God Bless
Mike
 
Thanks fellas.

I'm going to order some from from the guy on e-bay.

They are Starrett brand Matrix M42 Edge bimetal, regular tooth with a wavy set.

He is selling a pack of 3 for $18.20 with free standard shipping.

I think I will get two 14 tpi and one 18 tpi in case I want to cut some thinner stock.

Thanks for the advice guys.

This newbie GREATLY appreciates the amount of help he has received from Knife Dogs members.

I've also met some pretty outstanding people through this forum.

I will report back on my findings about the tracking issue after I get the new blade installed.
 
Well, I have my new Starrett blades and discovered my tracking problem.

When I removed the old blade, I decided to check the roller bearings and so forth.
What I discovered was the bottom/drive wheel had some pretty significant side to side slop.
I took the wheel off and discovered that the sleeve bearing was shot. Part of it actually crumbled
when I took the wheel off of the shaft. It looked like the sleeve bearings were pressed into the wheel
but I couldn't get the remaining sleeve bearing out, so I got online and just ordered a new wheel,
2 sleeve bearings and I figured while I'm rehabing it, I might as well order new tires for it too.

The wheel is 8-12 days to ship, but the rest should be here in a few days.
We will see how it goes. I hope I can press the bearings in easily, not sure how to go about it though.
My 1st instinct is to use a soft piece of wood on top of the bearing and a dead blow hammer to seat it.
Any better advice on seating the bearings?
 
Installed the sleeve bearings in the new wheel and replaced the tires.
Runs and tracks perfectly now.
$123 from ebay + $40 in parts = $163 for a close to $300 band saw.
Not too shabby.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
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