Black and Blue linerlock

bladegrinder

Well-Known Member
Here's a linerlock I just finished...
Damasteel stainless Damascus blade with ivy filework
carbon fiber scales
stabilized blue Box Elder burl bolsters
gold plated screws
CPM154 back bar with ivy filework
blue anodized and jeweled titanium liners
gold anodized titanium thumb bob

The blade etch is darker than the pictures show but I always have trouble trying to get really good pictures of Damascus....

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My logo-makers mark is on the back bar...

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bladegrinder

Well-Known Member
Thanks barlow, I anodized them with DC current. pretty awesome procedure, it's like flipping a light switch...bam, their blue.
 

John Wilson

Well-Known Member
Fantastic work, Steve! You put a serious amount of work into that for sure! Beautiful! The makers mark inside on the back bar is a really nice touch.
 

bladegrinder

Well-Known Member
From what I have read, it is limited by the amount of DC current you can generate. I've only seen people do it with 9V batteries in a series, but there are different setups that you can get that will get lots of different colors I think.
will they take any color?
There's a few ways to do it, the most common way I believe, and the way I do it is with a variac A/C voltage regulator - a D/C rectifier and distilled water with trisodium phosphate.

At around 24 volts A/C I get the blue that's on that knife, moving up to around 60 volts A/C it goes to a nice gold.
above that range it starts going back to blue again but in my experience it's not the vivid blue you get at 20-24.
then, going even higher, you start getting greens...but also at that voltage range things get a bit more reactive than i care for...
there's a lot of sizzling in the pot going on and the colors just don't seem to pop, at least using the process I use.
I either go for a nice deep blue or a bright gold.
 

bladegrinder

Well-Known Member
Fantastic work, Steve! You put a serious amount of work into that for sure! Beautiful! The makers mark inside on the back bar is a really nice touch.
Thanks John, I use a Hermes pantograph to put my mark there and man is it tiny. the stamp I use on my straight knives is to big for folder blades, and for folder blades I think it kind of detracts from the blade, more so with nice Damascus.
 

bladegrinder

Well-Known Member
i forgot you picked up a pantograph. it just paid off!
Actually I've had it for years I just don't use it often, but when I do it's friggin sweet.
years ago I had a gas forge I built with parts from work but at the time I also was turning pipe wrenches all day and got terrible tennis elbow and stopped using it. I was at Larry Lunn's shop in St. Pete one day and he had the pantograph sitting in a corner collecting dust so one thing led to another, I got a pantograph and he got a nice blown forge. the last I heard it's still running out in Arizona now.
 

bladegrinder

Well-Known Member
I need a demo on said pantograph. Please ?
It transmogrifies big things into little things....:D

Actually it's an articulating machine with several arms with fine adjustments for reduction in size from font plates.
mine will even do the inside of rings with all the gadgets that came with it but I never went down that road with it.
it's a cool machine and I'm glad I have it.
I know you can do inletting on handles with it also for shields and such. I use a diamond to make my mark but it also has a belt driven motor for engraving and inletting.
I'll try and post a picture of it tomorrow night.
 

Smallshop

KNIFE MAKER
It transmogrifies big things into little things....:D
Best description ever!

First time I ever saw one in use was at Burt Schragers custom pool cue shop. I was 19 and an apprentice tool maker so it fascinated me. That ol' boy was quite the craftsman!
 

bladegrinder

Well-Known Member
Here's a picture of the pantograph, the font with my logo is at the front and the work piece gets clamped in the fixture in the middle of the machine. once everything is sized and lined up you just trace the font and push down on the lever holding the diamond or engraving bit at the same time and it copy's it to your work piece.
On some pieces I clamped a flat piece of G10 and used double sided tape to hold the work piece.

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