Blade Finish Help

Mike Martinez

Mike Martinez

Well-Known Member
Okay, so I hand sanded this blade to 1500 and did an acid etch. After making the sheath, I noticed that the O1 / acid etch was easily scratched by the tight fit of the sheath. Anyhow I'm thinking I'll have to hand sand again with the handle still on (or maybe remove it all together and start again) to mitigate the finish and some pitting that happened with acid etching. The customer specified wanting a non-reflective finish so mirror is out of the question. Anyone have any ideas on a durable finish that won't go to scat when sheathed?

Bellow are photos of the blade and sheath. Thanks all.

DSC_0017.jpgDSC_0021.jpg
 
I have the same problem with my kydex sheath, and I sanded my knife to 600 grit. Have you considered a leather sheath?
 
I thought of leather but given my lack of talent in leather working, Kydex was my only real choice. That and this knife will be in Afghanistan for almost two years on vest.
 
I read on another post here about going to a custom auto-shop and asking what temp the coatings they put on things cures at, if its not too high it should be very durable. I haven't tested this myself just read it that one time. wish I could be of more help.
-Cameron
 
Mike,
The are a bit expensive, I use the Scotch Brite finishing belts. Tape up the handle just in case and use the Brown, Then the Maroon belt, then blue, then the last and finest is a Grey. Appox B-100 grit, M-150 Grit B-220 Grit & G-300 Grit This is a guesstamit and their finish is different than a grit.
Tru-Grit.com Ontario has them and maybe BossDog?

I don't bother with the imitation belts They don't last. Get the 3M Scotch-Brite 2 x 72" belts. They are about $25.00 each and if you want a Semi dull non-reflective finish I would stop at the Maroon.

I finish my Culinary Chef knives with these belts and it gives a great working finish.
That Customers like.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/
 
The kydex shouldn't be scuffing the knife that much, is it scratching or more just a rub that wears on the finish over multiple uses? If you're getting actual scratches you probably have something embedded in it or just in there loose. I'd start with rinsing it out a few times. If the scratching point seems to be near the top of the sheath you can use q-tips to try to clean it out, otherwise see if you can find something to wipe deeper.
I've taken to putting a double layer of painter's tape on my knives when forming sheaths, that way afterward there's a bit of a gap to reduce contact and rubbing.
 
Thank you Remy. Its just the finish coming off, the blade is over 60 HRC (I estimated this by using hardness testing files). I'm going to try and take the whole thing apart, refinish the blade, and reshape the sheath.

:s12137:
 
Yeah, when it's just rubbing the finish there's not much you can do other than adjust the sheath. That's why I went to the extra layer of tape. hehe. I got sick of that issue cropping up. I put another layer or two along the edge as well, to make sure it's got clearance and isn't being pressed into the kydex. It's probably a bit overkill but it's working for me.

That bites, since it's a beautiful sheath. Lots of extra work now to get it the way you want it again.
 
Painters tape x2 layers (see above) or a single layer of duct tape before forming the knydex to the knife will greatly reduce scuffing.
 
Thank you all for your advice. I ended up doing a very agonizing spot heating with a heat gun and it to stop stop scratching using some painters tape.
 
Another finish option would be duracoat. They sell small kits in any color imaginable as well as patterns.
 
Mike928 said:
Thank you all for your advice. I ended up doing a very agonizing spot heating with a heat gun and it to stop stop scratching using some painters tape.
Click to expand...

this is just what I was going to recommend while reading the thread.. I'd also only finish sand it to 1000 at best and wax the steel...

take care
 
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