Bob Warner etcher question

J

J.D. Hill

Active Member
I recently built the Bob Warner etcher from Cris Crawfords website and got some stencils from Ernie. I'm curious if anyone has instructions on how to wire the etcher with a switch to switch from 25-12 volt. Right now it is set up per the Cris Crawford website at what I think is 25 volts. The two etches I have done have come out great but I think its a bit too much and I might be burning my stencil. The logo still looks real good but the stencil is kinda "crispy" on the edges. I found the plans to turn it into a 12 volt but I thought it would be nice to add a switch and be able to go back and forth. I might be better off just wiring it for 12 volt.
Thanks for your time.
Jeff
 
All you need is a DPDT switch.

12v feeds one side of the switch, 25v feeds the other side.

The middle legs then go on to whatever they were doing before.

However, there is no need for 25v.

It's too much.
 
I think your right. I'm pretty sure that sure that the 25v is too much. Sounds like I'm fryin bacon when etching. I'm just gonna wire it for 12v and see how that goes. I think I'll also buy some proper electrolyte, I've read where the salt water I'm currently using gets a bit hot.
Thanks for your time
Jeff
 
EX-9B or EX-D20 from TUS Technologies works well on all knife steels I have tried.

Carbon and stainless.

FWIW, 16v seems to be the optimal voltage.

16v transformers also are conveniently found for about $12 at any hardware store.
Doorbell transformers....
 
Fellhoelter said:
All you need is a DPDT switch.

12v feeds one side of the switch, 25v feeds the other side.

The middle legs then go on to whatever they were doing before.

However, there is no need for 25v.

It's too much.
Click to expand...


Could someone please clarify this. We have 2 plans circulating 12v and 24v. 1st the transformer is reversed between the 2 plans. It was said to reverse the #s but if u do that u have changed the wires. Are the input wires 4 and 5 interchangeable? Then the desire to add a switch is a very common question so why not post the instructions. These instructions if they are right are not clear. Where do u add the switch. Do u use both yellow wires on one side and a black and one yellow on the other? Which yellow? What goes in the middle? If u use a SPDT cut in between the black #2 on transformer and #1 one bridge r. use the wire coming off the bridge as the common and put the left over yellow on top and the black on the bottom of switch, on off on or high off low. This makes more sense but I thought I would get on high 24v and low 12v for AC and for DC 12v high and 6v low but I get 24v, 12 v for both AC and DC what should I be getting? Please help w/ wiring and what I should be reading on multi-meter? Thanks
 
Piggy said:
Could someone please clarify this. We have 2 plans circulating 12v and 24v. 1st the transformer is reversed between the 2 plans. It was said to reverse the #s but if u do that u have changed the wires. Are the input wires 4 and 5 interchangeable? Then the desire to add a switch is a very common question so why not post the instructions. These instructions if they are right are not clear. Where do u add the switch. Do u use both yellow wires on one side and a black and one yellow on the other? Which yellow? What goes in the middle? If u use a SPDT cut in between the black #2 on transformer and #1 one bridge r. use the wire coming off the bridge as the common and put the left over yellow on top and the black on the bottom of switch, on off on or high off low. This makes more sense but I thought I would get on high 24v and low 12v for AC and for DC 12v high and 6v low but I get 24v, 12 v for both AC and DC what should I be getting? Please help w/ wiring and what I should be reading on multi-meter? Thanks
Click to expand...
I had tacos for lunch.
 
FWIW, I see NO reason whatsoever for 24v, but if you must have it, you must.
Always meter the wires coming off of the transformer.
Well, let me clarify, always meter EVERYTHING so that you understand what is going on.

Looking at the schematic, it appears as though a SPDT switch would do it.
http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/knifeshop/etcher/electro-etcher_circuit.pdf

Feed transformer wire #1 to one side of the switch, and #2 to the other side of the switch.
The output (center) of the switch then carries on as if there was no switch in the circuit.
So, when the switch is toggled one way you have 24v AC and DC, and when toggled the other way, you have 12v AC and DC.
 
Fellhoelter said:
I had tacos for lunch.
Click to expand...

Yea! I hope they burn coming and going. Dude this is a big topic for u for many years. I have to more then agree that plans last edited in 2007 should of been corrected by now. I even discussed the pos, neg. issue w/ one of these guys and he said he was aware of it and should maybe fix it some day. This was last month. 3 or 4 sets of almost identical plans and all followed suit. It is bad practice to reverse these colors because they are universally the same red pos, black neg. starting w/ car battery chargers. the switch is another issue if u are not sure about something that can kill a person if wrong and electric wirering can and does kill, then don't give partial answers. The middle lag whatever it was doing, is a very poor answer. I am certain that starting w/ the DPDT verses a SPDT was the problem. Very easy mistake however. All these switches can get confusing. Now I could use some help w/ the DPDT switch. mine is 1,2,3 on one side 4,5,6 on the other if I use the numbers w/ the wires in the plan I get DC at 1 and 4 and AC at 3 and 6 that gives me both dc at the top and both ac at the bottom. I thought DC was suppose to go on one side and AC on the other I am getting a very weird reading w/ my meter. I want to change this but I can't afford to blow the transformer either. Has anyone else had this problem or am I wired right? I have read numerous post w/ people having problems getting there etcher to work, they move around a few wires and it works great. It is never really clear which wires they adjusted. Here is some switch info might be helpful to some.http://http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm
 
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Fellhoelter said:
Feed transformer wire #1 to one side of the switch, and #2 to the other side of the switch.
The output (center) of the switch then carries on as if there was no switch in the circuit.
So, when the switch is toggled one way you have 24v AC and DC, and when toggled the other way, you have 12v AC and DC.
Click to expand...

The output (center) of the switch then carries on as if there was no switch in the circuit. On the center of the switch you need a common to run the 12 and 24 this is the wire that was originally connected to the #3 on the bridge this will now connect to the common on the SPDT switch. Then u would have a flow through as u described.
 
I don't want anyone to think I am being negative with Fellhoelter. I have read many of his post and viewed is web site. He is a professional and more then willing to share is knowledge. I too, like to share what little I know when I can. Getting this wirering right is important to me. Many people building an etcher have no prior experience but w/ step by step clear instructions this is a very easy build that anyone can do. When something is not clear it seams there is usually someone trying to help you through. After reviewing the pics posted by zaph1 http://http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/888013-New-Electro-Etcher-design?highlight=build+etcherI was able to follow the wirering in the pics by the color chart he used. On the switch in the 1st pic (of inside of box) it shows a blue and a blue and white wire at the top and bottom of right hand side of DPDT this is what I have so follow the instructions and you should have a working etcher. To use the 12 or the 24 is controversial the 24v is said to be harsh on stencils, I wanted to have both just because!
 
Dude, the taco post was designed to be incomprehensible.
Like the post it was in response to!

You gotta break those things up a bit man, they are HaRd 2 ReEd.

I still don't really know what you're after, but trying to decipher it is giving me a headache.

Here is a schematic for an almost ÜberEtcher.

It is missing my carbidizing circuit, and it uses a regular transformer instead of a variac.
Add those 2 things, and it would become the ÜberAnoEtcherDizer!

I have not verified that 2 of the circuits will work yet, but they should.
I have not verified the 12v 24v switch, and I have not verified the 2 neons on the left. (Use 2 different colors to differentiate between AC and DC)

I'll attach both versions, the simple, all you need etcher, and the AlmostÜber, which no one needs.
 

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