Bone Liner Lock

Ausbrooks

Ausbrooks

KNIFE MAKER
Just finished this new folder which is my second and was significantly less painful than my first but still many lessons. The lock came out good and is very smooth lock to unlock and flips open with minor wrist action. It was a fun build as I wanted to try some of my mokume and some jigged bone that was PP treated.
Specs: 3" .135 BG42 SS blade, 64RC, .062 Ti frame, raindrop mokume bolsters, SS pivot, teflon washers, amb. thumb studs, bone scales.
All comments and critiques welcome and thanks for lookin'.






 
congratulations!
sounds great!
64hrc you very much, that steel is BG42 did not know him
only thing that does not I really like the clip is very thin
 
Thanks Dan and Brad for the kind words.

Dan I have some wider clips but liked the narrow look on this one. and yes the BG42 is not used much anymore but is a high grade SS.
 
Looks great!!! I would recommend going to phosphor bronze washers. Teflon is a material that tends to compress. Frank
 
Thanks Eric and Frank!

And thanks for the tip on the washers Frank, I didn't know they compressed. I did try to buy 1/4" ID bronze washers several months back and couldn't find any. I see Boss has them now so will have to get some. Another major knife parts place still does not have them, but has every other possible size.
 
Congrats on the nice folder! I use Teflon washer quite a bit but like Frank says they do compress. You have to allow for the compression by making your backspacer a little thinner.
 
Beautiful looking folder! I am not usually one for bolsters but it flows very nicely with the jigged bone. Nice job all the way around.
 
Thanks for the comments Phil and Flatblack, appreciate it. And Phil thanks for the note on the teflon washers, I will keep that in mind.
 
nice I like it! I just saw this because I just designed my first and was going to post the design and start my first anything I should look for Aus?
 
Thanks Larry! I saw your design on your thread and it looks good- my lock and stop geometry is very similar and works good, but for future designs I may consider positioning the stop pin farther back which allows the top of the tang to extend farther back into the frame and on close the bottom edge of blade tang hits the stop rather than the back edge. I think this may be a stonger design and at least looks a little better. These pictures from the Ray Rogers tutorial show this design and something you may consider as I am.

Rogers Pic2.jpgRogers Pic 1.jpg
 
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