Buck 110 Custom, 1st One!

[RoBoTech]

I have had requests to show a work log of my Custom Buck 110 build.
I am building a Buck 110 from essentially scratch. All that will be stock is the lock bar, spring, blade, and butt spacer (to hold the spring).
I am building the SS liners from 316 Marine SS, .036" thick. $16.00, shipped.
I am replacing all rivets with 1/8" pivot pins with 2-56 screws. The screws will be T-8 instead of T-6. The pivots and screws will have to be cut down to fit the width of the frame.
The bronze bushings shown below is not for the blade pivot, as it has a bushing. They are for the lock bar.
The lock bar is .010" thinner than the blade, and the butt spacer. Buck doesn't worry about it, but in these thin liner builds, we need to keep that width consistent. I have found adding these bushings help. And they are hidden when the knife is assembled.
Hardware is about $12.00 shipped.
The scales will be a set of BLEMISHED Toxic Green that has a factory blem resembling snakeskin. About 1/5th of a sheet, about $3.00. And I will use black fiber liners.
I am also drilling and tapping 4-40 screw holes for a polished Titanium deep ride pocket clip. Clip about $7.50.
I am reshaping the stock 110 with a two finger choil frame, one small and one sweeping. The FG version of the Buck has four small ones.
I have obtained a CPM-154 BOS heat treated Buck 110 blade and bushing from a friend here at BF. This will be the blade on the custom. A little better than the 420HC. $70.00 shipped.
The parts I am using come from several different knives. The butt spacer, which I had to cut down for the new frame shape, is from an older version. The lock bar from that knife is worn and has some up and down play.
So, I have purchase a 110 built in 2010 from the 'bay. $14.00 SHIPPED, LOL.
When I receive it in the next couple of days, I will punch out the lock bar and use that, and maybe the spring, too. Due to the shorter (top to bottom) frame, I have to work down the blade stop portion of the lock bar to allow the blade to seat below the frame so it is covered. A long process, but necessary.
Here are the pictures where I am at today, and will post again when I get the new parts and finish this up.

Here is the liners drawn and the old Buck 110 frame used to start this.

Here re a few parts, including a FG model frame to show the difference in how the frame will be finger grooved, but different than a stock version.

New CPM-154 blade

Here is the knife assembled to get the liners shaped for the other hardware. Just a quick assembly.

Opposite side, closed.

More parts. Notice the lock bar has been cut down at the blade stop. Just a prototype as the locking tang is badly worn and I won't use this lock bar.
I also had to drill and cut the back spacer to allow the clip screws to have a little extension. I will show that better when I take the next batch of pictures of the disassembled parts before I put this together.

Here are the Toxic Green scales ready to shape, and drill holes for the screws.

Scales shaped, and ready to cut black liners.

 

[RoBoTech]

I am waiting for my donor 110, should be here this morning.
So, here are a few more pictures.

Gluing the black liners on. Gorilla glue.

I have cut down the pivot pins and screws to fit the whole mess together when I get the 110 today. The benefit of using pivot pins is that they are hardened.

Here are a few pictures of the knife waiting for the lockbar and blade. Then I do a final shape to fit (liners, scales, and such). Then a sand down and polish. i MAY put on a thinner TI clip, more of a stealth type. We'll see when I get there.

If I get the 110 today, I will finish this up and post the final pictures.

 

[RoBoTech]

I finished the project this afternoon, so here is the rest of the pics.
After I had shaped and fitted everything, it is ready for the new lock bar, and assembly.

Here is the donor 110. It was made in 2010. I just needed a good lock bar, and took the spring, too.

Here is the donor with the lock bar rivet punch out.

I had to grind down the new lock bar to allow the blade to recede properly into the frame. I had cut the frame down with finger choils, and the blade tip would protrude. Dangerous!
And here is the butt spacer (spring retainer) that I had to grind out on one side, and drill a hole on the other to allow some clip screw room.

Here is the knife with one side, the blade, lock bar, spring, etc assembled. Ready to button up.

Next post, the finished project

 

[RoBoTech]

Here is the finished custom Buck 110. Toxic Green G-10 with a "snakeskin" pattern (was a blemish on the sheet). With a black fiber lining.
CPM-154CM BOS heat treated blade.
New pivot pins, screws, bushings, and a low ride Titanium pocket clip.
Clip screws drilled and tapped for T-8 4-40 screw. Scale screws are T-8 button head 2-56.
Blade centered, action is smooth. It will get smoother after it seats. This will be a one hand opener.

Pocket clip or not I have a custom sheath for it.

 

[RoBoTech]

Couldn't seem to get the color right on the above pics. More camera than knowledge.

So, I took some more to get better representation.

Can see the black liner better, here.

Happy now.

 

[Scott Davidson]

nice work sir