Drill Bit Sizes

Kevin Zito

Kevin Zito

KNIFE MAKER
Ok ... I’m defeated, disgusted and looking for yet another knife that I have thrown across my yard. (Not really, but I wanted to throw it.) After cracking a mol, 6.02*10^(23), of handle scales, I’m coming once again to the knife gods with a question. For 3/16 pins what size drill bit should I use? Same question for 1/8 and 1/4. Thanks!
 
OK, let's give this a shot and see if folks agree.

First, download this chart from right here on knifedogs: https://knifedogs.com/threads/drill-chart-for-downloading-and-printing.6271/

1/8" = .125", drill for scale: #30 drill = .1285" which gives a .003" clearance
3/16" = .1875", drill for scale: #12 drill = .189", but perhaps better a #11 at .191" for .0035"
1/4" = .250", drill for scale: #F drill = .257" which gives a .007" clearance
 
Kevin I use Reamers to finish size holes. On brittle material after I drill, then ream hole I tilt scale side to side to over size hole a bit.
 
If you want a tighter fit for looks you can (on solid pins only) groove them on a lathe
or sand little "rings" in them to hold epoxy(drill motor/belt grinder)
leaving the fit tight at the where the pin exits the handle. Sometimes I don't like the "haze ring" around the pin if loose enough to show epoxy. You only have to spin them a few thousandths to lock them in. It's a bit more work...doesn't take long.
 
With only .003" clearance there shouldn't be any haze around the pin. When we say "next size", we're not talking about next size of fraction bit, but the next size bit in letters which is usually only .003" range over size. Just enough to allow the pin to slide in, but still no visible clearance.

When I was using solid pins I did the same, putting rings in pin, or really "roughing" up the surface to provide good holding for epoxy.
 
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