Etching Problem

backtines

backtines

Well-Known Member
Hey guys , Question about the right etching machine to use.

I have been etching my knives for the past few years using an "Etch O Matic" machine and I gotta tell ya , every time I get ready to use this thing , its a coin toss to know weather or not the etch will come out good or bad on the blade. I know that the face of the "etcher "Is about 1"x2.75"? Sometimes the etch comes out good and sometimes not so good and then I find myself sanding off the old etch and trying to realign the stencil back in place to re etch again. Its a pain in the neck trying to fix .

I know there are a few different Etchers on the market . Is one any better than the other ? Am I having my problems because the face of the etcher is too big ? I also know that these stencils get a little messed up after using them a lot but still cant put my finger on exactly what the problem is ..

I was wondering what kind of etching machines you guys use and if you had any bad experiences using the "Etch O Matic " machine ?
And if its the machine ? what machine would you recommend?

Any info would help . Thanks guys.
 
Never used the Etch O Matic, so i can't say about it. I have had better luck using a Qtip, instead of the etching pads. You may try that, just dip in the solution and soak well, then dab it on a paper towell to remove excess solution, then place an alligator clip just above the end on the damp qtip, and pat and hold for a count of 3-5 and repeat to the next section of your mark, you may repeat this severial times, this method makes stencils last longer for me and less ghosting around the mark.
You may have a problem with your solution also, my new solution has a shelf life of 2 years. I have used salt water with good results. just practice on some scrap, and see if this helps. This has been posted buy another maker, don't remember who, but that is where I got this method, and it works for me. My etcher is the Personalizer Plus. Hope this helps.
Dale
 
I have a old Marking Methods unit.
Haven't used one of yours. The stencil is the first thing I would replace. That's inexpensive and you can always use them later.

I haven't use him yet But I will for my next batch.
Many of the Knifedogs have raved about Erine's Blue Stencils. shrpknife@aol.com. 407-568-5438
If it's the stencil you can tell by looking at it?

I have never had solution go bad and have used the stuff about 8-10 years out of date.
It's a Salt water with a few other things mixed in.

Most of the supply house's have great new units for around a $100.00 I don't think it's your unit? If it works good some times it should be able to work good all the time. Any loose wires?

Try the Q-tip thing that dale has suggested.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys , I guess Ill try the Q tip thing on some scrap first and go from there.. Ill let you know how I made out .
 
My etcher is a homebuilt so I can't comment directly on the etcher itself

I'd speculate the machine itself is fine. You can simply test it with a voltmeter. If it's putting out voltage it's fine.

If you don't have a voltmeter laying around I'd bet one of your friends has one. This could eliminate the machine itself as a source of the problem.

Not sure what the "pad" part of your etcher looks like but the salt in the solution causes some serious corrosion issues on my aligator clips. I've changed them before do to bad contact and keep some spare clips in the drawer for next time. Just thinking corrosion on your hot lead somewhere may give you that iffy, sometimes it's good and sometimes it's not situation.

I'm guessing stencil isn't your issue or it'd always come out bad. If the stencil isn't wrinkled from excessive heat or the screen actually burned out it's probably ok.

I tried a large pad like you're describing when I first built my etcher and couldn't get a result I liked so I'm a q-tip guy too.


Desribing exactly what the etch looks like when it needs to be sanded off may help in trouble shooting the problem.

Take care, Josh
 
I hang out at a friend's shop quite frequently and the only etcher he uses is an Etch O Matic. Something I have witnessed as he uses his is the meticulous maintenance/cleaning he does to the etcher after every use. Reading of your difficulties brings a few questions to mind.

How old is your solution?
Have you examined the etching block for damage?
How often do you replace the felt pad?
When was the last time you removed the leads and cleaned the connectors?
Have you tried using a new stencil and if so, did you have the same results?
 
I had an Etch-O-Matic 20+ years ago.
Same problem as yourself untill I figured it out. When my marks started going bad, a couple swipes of 400 grit on the screen under the pad fixed it every time. The crud on the screen built up resistance to the electrical flow. I used my motorcycle battery charger with a chunk of alluminum for a marker for a while, that worked fine. Can't beat the Marking Methods machine though.

Good luck,
Rudy
 
Really great advice by everyone.. Id like to be a little more specific with my problem .. and this is how I do it.
1. I wet the felt with a pink acid solution sold by "Etch O Matic "
2. The stencil is taped in place
3. I hold my etcher on the blade for a count of 5 or sometimes 8 depending on how wet the pad is
4. now I take the stencil off , sometimes it looks perfect , sometimes it looks like the logo is wet too much.. When the logo looks " too wet "
I feel I either stayed on the burn too long or too much acid..
5. I then take this yellow solution ( came with the machine ) and put a few drops over the etch .. This is supposed to kill the burn and stop the process.. I let sit a minute or so and wipe off .
6. wipe a little wd40 over the logo and I should be done .

When I look at the blade later , it looks like smudge marks through the logo , which evidently came from me wiping.. But when did that problem take place .. Did I wipe too early ? Was there too much acid on the felt during the burn ? Is the Yellow solution Bad and not doing its job ? ( killing the etch ) There are too many alternatives.. I think I just may but another machine , but I first want to try the q tip thing.

How do I incorporate it with my machine ? I have a ground lead witch I clip to the blade . but what do I clip on to the q tip ? I guess I may have to take apart my machine and use the lead that goes to the felt?( or the metal screen below it )

Thanks again guys , I will keep you informed as soon as I get the chance to get down in the pit again .
 
I can't answer every question but here's what I do know works.
With every etcher I've used, I knew I was in the 'zone' when I heard the sound of miniature bacon sizzeling. With the Etch-O- Matic it took several on/off applications to etch, not just one. I saturate the pad with fluid and press it out onto a rag untill it just feels damp. After removing the stencil, don't wipe anything. The smudge marks are residue of etchant that you spread around or etchant seepage under the stencil. I spray the etch with Windex and let it sit in the etch. After cleaning my stencil, I come back and lightly rub the puddle/etch with my thumb. There's usually a slight halo around the mark that disappears with a couple passes of the last grit used or a light touch on a vey fine scotchbrite belt. I would ditch the yellow solution and use a wet paste of baking soda or the windex. Framing the etch area under the stencil with electrical tape helps quite a bit, it keeps extra etchant from seeping onto your blade. Never tried a Qtip but flannel shirts make tons of etching pads.

Rudy
 
I have an etch o matic. A year or two ago, I made a simple modification (as mentioned in an earlier post) to convert it to use q-tips. All I did was attach a length of 24AWG copper wire from an old network cable to the grid under the pad. Basically, you just coil the other end to the cotten swab and go. You obviously don't want the lead going all the way to the tip, so just be sure the electrolyte wets the cotton where you wrapped the wire. Blot with a paper towel, and you are ready to etch. The 24AWG is probably a little thin, but I have a virtually endless supply of it, so I just replace it every 10 etches or so. I do agree that you need to examine the elements for corrosion and clean as needed to ensure decent voltage to the "pad". Hope this helps.
 
mark redmon said:
i have an etch o matic. A year or two ago, i made a simple modification (as mentioned in an earlier post) to convert it to use q-tips. All i did was attach a length of 24awg copper wire from an old network cable to the grid under the pad. Basically, you just coil the other end to the cotten swab and go. You obviously don't want the lead going all the way to the tip, so just be sure the electrolyte wets the cotton where you wrapped the wire. Blot with a paper towel, and you are ready to etch. The 24awg is probably a little thin, but i have a virtually endless supply of it, so i just replace it every 10 etches or so. I do agree that you need to examine the elements for corrosion and clean as needed to ensure decent voltage to the "pad". Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

thanks mark ..great tip , thank you .. That seems the easiest way out right now at this moment .. Gonna give it a try when i have the chance .
 
Mikey,

No matter how well my machine works on each etch I always lightly sand the area with a 2000 Grit not on Black ice piece of Paper.
Just cut a 2-3" square and fold it over and use your fingers for a light even buff off of the Frosting and ghost type edges on your logo
after you have etched and stop the salts with soap & water or what ever chemical they sold you.

This always really helps give you strong definition on the etch lines.

Laurence

www.westsidesharpening.com/
 
Thats why KNIFE DOGS ROCK !! there is so much GREAT !! information here .. Thanks guys I love it !
 
You can make one out of a two line cell phone charger and small gator clips - works sweet and is pretty much free. I mean, who doesn't have a drawer full of old cell chargers that they have wondered, "Why am I hanging onto these stupid things?" Now you know

Bob Urban
 
Well , gotta tell ya .. My Etching problem solved ! I used the the q tip method the way Mark described ( clipping one end to the grid on the EtchO Matic and the other end to the q tip) and it worked GREAT ! I now have much more control . I didnt like using the E O M because I would smuther the whole stencil with the felt . I sometimes didnt know if the whole pad was pushing the whole stencil . I would finish with a etch cycle , pull up the stenci and find out part of it took and the other didnt.. I then would have to try and realign the stenci in the exact spot and etch again . ( Pain in the Neck ! ) With the q tip method I was able to touch exactly what needed to be etched and it came out dead on .. This is now my way of etching from here on it ..

Thanks again to all for helping me out with this problem !
 
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