Finishing bolsters

L

levernut

Well-Known Member
I make full tang knives, usually with a tapered tang and dovetail bolsters. When I sand the bolster and wooden handle, I often create a dip in the wood where it meets the steel bolster, especially on a dovetail bolster. I know this is because the wood is softer than the steel but I can't seem to make a nice, flush joint like I see on so many knives. Does anyone have a finishing technique they can share to overcome this? Thanks in advance for your help.
Brad
 
Use a hard sanding block and sand at an angle. This keeps part of the block on the bolster and part of the block on the handle scales. This way everything stays nice and flat. I'm sure there are other ways, this is just what works for me. Hope this helps.
 
How I fight against that is to try to angle the knife more parallel with the belt versus coming in perpendicular while I'm cleaning up the junction between the bolsters and handle. If I can get the belt to hit the bolster first then slip over the handle insert it seems to dig in a lot less. I have to really watch from a high angle looking right at the removal area.
 
Darrin,
Do you do your finish sanding with a hard sanding block? If so, please explain how you follow countours.
Frank,
Do you do you finish sanding with the belt grinder?
Thanks for your help. You've given me some ideas already.
Brad
 
I can usually get the knife almost done with just the 2x72 and 16x and 5x Norax belts. Guaranteed the sides and front and back of the handle. Around any finger choils and the rounded butt I sometimes use a really flexible J-Flex type belt in a fine grit to help it "wrap" so it dosen't get a lot of faceted flat spots or dig marks. On the edges of the bolsters and around the butt area I sometimes have to use a piece of 800 grit black wet/dry sandpaper to smooth it over really nice, then I buff it with green chrome compound and a soft 8" buffing wheel with my 3450 rpm Northern Tool buffer.
 
I only use the hard backing at the scale/bolster junction to keep every thing straight & level. I get close with the grinder then go to hand sanding. You can use dowels for contours also.
 
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