first folding design

franklin

Well-Known Member
I am trying to design my first folder and this is what I came up with.
Any suggestions or critiques welcome would like to get it right :)
hope pics show everything. one open one closed and was thinking of using thumb stud as part of stop.
 

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It looks like it will work. Drawing is one thing,doing is another but you can do it. I think I would move the thumb stud back as far as possible toward the tang,make sure it clears when you open and close though. Good luck and have fun!
 
Thanks Calvin this will be getting started very soon. Any thoughts on the liner what's better a stainless or titanium?
 
I think you will do better with titanium,use 6AL4V. If you use stainless you will have to use something you will have to heat treat to a spring temper,the titanium will not need heat treat.
 
Larry, I agree with Calvin. Go with the titanium. It's easy to work with and very strong. Tapping for screws can be tricky, especially 0-80. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
 
thanks jim and calvin. just got to order everything and then its on I am not stoping till I get a folder done this time :)
 
Nope flubbed up some how. in 2nd pic when the blade rolls shut there is a part of the back of blade that sticks out and looks really bad.
Tried to make front of handle bigger but don't like the looks. Then tried to shorten the back of blade no go. Happy I decided to make a mock up of plexiglass first well back to drawing board :( Any suggestions???????????
 
Think if I move the pivot point back and made the back of blade longer it would still keep its look???
 
That probably will work. One of the things that can "get you" at least at first when making folders is the blades always seem too short. Stay with a pattern before starting even if it's a thin card board one with just a pin in the pivot positon. Frank
 
You might get some additional insights by doing one or two of Tracy's folder kits first and pay attention to movement and mechanics as well as design. On the folder I designed, The Urban Fury, I printed it actual size on heavy stock paper, cut it out and put it together to make sure everything lined up the way I thought it would. Then a friend mad me a mock up out of G10. I had David Curtiss make a couple of prototypes and now its being put into production by an established company.
 
Frank thanks for the tips. Rock nice to hear from you its been awhile. Congrats on the folder would like to see when it comes out. I thought about one of the kits but.... but I normally just dive in like a fool :)
All kidding aside I get the mechanics of everything I just can't seem to get the design and mechanics to work together to get what I want yet.
Does that make any sense?
 
Yes, it does. Here is a bit more that might help. First most often we want to over make the design. Two it may be necessary to have your pivot pin just a very little below center. Three, make the cut out on the blade where the leaf spring is going and it will help the blade be inside the frame when closed. Five, try drawing the pattern larger or smaller when you open the blade or close it. Six send me an email with your address and I will mail you a ready to go pattern so you can see how the parts fit. my email is niro@telus.net I would be very happy to help you in this way. Frank
 
thanks Frank
That helps now to keep drawing to get it right .1 more thought would you draw a blade around a handle or
a handle around the blade you want ?
 
I also notice you placed the spacer or back bar right on the end. That will then require you to shorten the blade length. Just move it up, and if necessary make it not as wide. What I do is draw the blade and handle all together; decide the length of the blade which is the front of the handle to the tip of the blade, place the center of the pivot about 3/8" behind this and just a bit below center measure the length from this pivot center to the end of the blade; this plus a 1/16 or so will be the length from the center of the pivot to the end of the handle. I don't send pictures or I sure would. Stay with it !!! Frank
 
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ok guys one more question, I am going to do my first one for myself and for 2 reasons I am going to use 1095 steel 1 its a favorite of mine to work with.
2 I have lots on hand. my question is I will be making my liners from 1/16 1095 I now the temp to heat to for spring temper but heard there was a really
easy way to spring temper was to put in oil and start it on fire and wait till it goes out, anyone try this.
 
ok guys one more question, I am going to do my first one for myself and for 2 reasons I am going to use 1095 steel 1 its a favorite of mine to work with.
2 I have lots on hand. my question is I will be making my liners from 1/16 1095 I now the temp to heat to for spring temper but heard there was a really
easy way to spring temper was to put in oil and start it on fire and wait till it goes out, anyone try this.

If you know how to spring temper it,DO IT and dispense with the hocus pocus.
:)


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