First forged blade

M

Mr. Bad Example

Guest
Had a great time at the ABS Hammer In this weekend. Here's my first try at forging. I did get advice and assistance from some very talented 'smiths so I can't claim sole authorship (the flaws are all mine, though). Thanks John, Mace, Zack, Herb, Nick!

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HammerIn001.jpg


I have learned that forging is fun, but much more difficult than it looks. Now I'll get the scale off and work on the profile.
 
Yeah,
They make it look so easy. Thats why I forge some for myself , but I won't sell those pieces . I am mainly stock removal . Don't give up. Looks alot better than mine.
JZ
 
Yes, I would say that the blade looks better than most first efforts. As far as looking harder than it is, you will find that some of the simpler blade forms, like a triangular single edge knife, are actually very hard to forge because you constantly have to counter the way the steel wants to move as you forge it. They will teach you how to move steel, however.

Doug Lester
 
Great job with the knife!

The ABS weekend in Maine was a blast! especially when Butch had his hammer explode!

I got out bid on everything at the auction. So I gave the rest of my money to Aldo and came home with a pile of steel.

Ernie
 
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Looks like a great first effort to me! I too had my first forging experience over the weekend so I know how you feel about now! I also know about the "defects" you speak of! :(

Looking forward to the finished product!

Charlie
 
Finally got a chance to work on the blade. Did the profile with a file and started cleaning up the flats with the grinder. Now, I wonder how much of the hammer "dents" I can/should get out, especially down near the edge? I forsee this being sort of a rustic looking knife so some forge marks are fine. Ideas, advice, comments?

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ForgedBladeProject002.jpg


ForgedBladeProject001.jpg
 
I can't really tell by looking at your pictures how deep the dings are in the blade or how much steel you have to play with. I would deffinantly get the dings out around the edge if not the whole blade. If you like the rustic look, which I don't like esthetically or as being historically accurate, you could leave some of them around the spine. Be aware that irregularities in the blade can cause stressors and problems in heat treating. I grind the dings out of my blades though I might leave on in the handle area if it will be covered up, though I grind them out there too if I can. Grinding the flats and then the bevels seems to keep me out of the most trouble. I have a little double edged dagger that I ground the bevels on first and now I'm having fits with the flats. It may end up the difference between a knife that could be sold and one only fit to give away. That's assuming that I don't turn it into a knife shaped paperweight messing with it.

Doug Lester
 
You're gaining an understanding of why some forgers swear by 'forge it thick and grind it thin'. It's a good way to start out and as you learn more hammer control, you can forge closer to finished shape.

Good results for a first time,
Carey
 
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