Getting Scales Flat

Johnny Roberts

Johnny Roberts

Well-Known Member
How do some of you get your scales flat?

As I have progressed to combining different materials and types of wood for my handles, I have been sanding the side that will be positioned against the full tang blades. I have a big piece of marble and I tape down some 12 X 12 inch sandpaper and pull the scales from the far sided to me.

I get a great finish but sometimes the scales may not be an even thickness when I am done. They may be slightly thinner on one side or end. As I user spacer materials and angled joints, these differences become even more visable.

It is not a super big deal since I can usually correct it. Sometimes, it is no issue at all since after my scales are attached, I am working the handles to the same thickness with files and my slack belt attachment.

But I am thinking there has to be a better way to get symetrical flat scales.

I bought a small Delta Planer but the contact wheels were just barely more than five inches apart and it actually would leave low spots on the scales when the second drive wheel would pick up the block. (I usually work with scales that are exactly 5 inches long and you could see the scale wobble as one contact wheel grabbed it and the other one let go. This did not occur on longer boards.) I tried it on another 2500 dollar planer and got similar results. In fact, it was worse.

Any suggestions? I have tried the flat platen and disk sander but the higher speed seems to mean bigger mistakes to fix back on the sandpaper for me. I have also seen the Micro Planer but at 700 bucks for a machine that I may use once a week?

School me, fellow knife makers and many thanks.

Johnny "Stay on the low side of the buffer." Roberts
 
I flatten handle material on the platen, but I have a variable speed grinder, so I can slow it down. I still use the sandpaper though to make sure it is as flat as I can get it. One think to remember is that wood can and will change shape or warp and the only suggestion is to use stabilized material. I usually only use 60 grit paper to flatten them so it still has enough texture for the epoxy to penetrate.
-John
 
What about hot gluing the piece you want to plane to a larger board, this way the larger board rides on the contact wheels and the scale material gets the cut.

I have gone as far as using double stick tape and sticking micarta to the magnetic chuck on my surface grinder and grinding it flat.

I think a delta 4X36 belt sander is what you want.
 
You should ask Fiddleback. He does a ton of laminating. Go down to his subforum and post this question.
-John
 
I do basicly what Mike recommends on a flattening plate, and it works well for me. I've noticed what you're talking about when planing boards on my father-in-law's planer.


Todd Robbins
 
This took me a lot of ivory dust to figure out.
Heat curls material. All material. If you get something hot, it will curl up and if you try to make some thing flat when heat has curled it up, it's like chasing your tail. When it cools down, the piece relaxes and you lose your flat side.

I use a disc grinder to get things flat. A flat platen on a belt grinder rounds off the edges. The belt curls on the top edge and puckers on the bottom edge so the top and bottom edge are rounded off just enough to be an issue. You can flatten over size pieces and cut off the rounded edges but that is wasteful.

When I get really serious, I spray feathering adhesive onto my granite bench plate and stick some sand paper to it. Then I very slowly figure 8 sand by hand. This is really a pain so I tend to just stick with the disc grinder.

btw, I use the Beaumont metal 9" beveled disc. The (very slight) hollow grind it give is something like .0005". I can't hold anything that steady so it's basically not a factor.
 
I only do scales for folders so they are small to begin with. My scales are, of course, oversize. I start with 60 grit on my 2X72 I watch to see that both sides are pretty much parallel. I then use 120 grit on the side that will go down. I now go to my granite block and use 120 first and then 220grit. For these small pieces I use masking tape doubled back in the middle for a "handle". I just stroke back and forth. You can take a marking pencil and cover the side you are flattening and then make a couple of strokes on the 220. This should show you what kind of a job you have done for flat. Frank
 
The problem I've found with 4x36" Belt Sanders is the "platen" under the belt is never completely flat. I used JB Weld to attach a flat piece of steel to it. Mark your measurements all the way around your scales and watch carefully when you sand. It may be best to use an older 120 grit belt.

I also use sandpaper taped down to a piece of very thick plastic I know is flat. I go in a circular motion, so many times in one direction, the same in the other. But ya still hafta keep an eye on it.

Hope this helps. cool 1
 
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It can be done

If you really want to use a planer you need glue or tape your scales end to end on to a piece of ply wood or other flat board that is wide enough to put a sacrificial board on either side. These boards should be a longer then the length of the scales end to end on the board. The sacrificial boards will support the rollers and prevent the nip that you are seeing. This is better done in batches put as many scales as you like in between the sacrificial boards. Just be absolutely sure the scales are secure! Only works with wood and laminated pieces require very sharp knives and very very small increments. Also great for small box parts or displays and such. :D
 
Thanks to everyone for your responses.

I am selfishly glad to see that others have wrestled with this same issue.

I now have quite a few new things to try.

Johnny
 
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