Glass Platen

Mike Martinez

Mike Martinez

Well-Known Member
Glass Platen Adhesive

My GIB grinder is done with once exception... I have yet to find a suitable way to attach the ceramic/ glass platen to the grinder. I've read about a product called Resbond 940 but am unsure if it would work with two different substrates and there is also the price. Any suggestions that won't break the bank? BTW, this stuff is rated for temps from 2000-3000F.
 
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Most use JBWeld for this.

Has a decent temp rating for the "common" (affordable) epoxies. I can't remember exact rating, but should be somewhere around 500?
My belief is that if you're getting things that hot, then you're already exceeding the safe temps for the sanding/grinding belt itself.

I think Andrew (AR Custom Knives on this forum) has successfully used a type of double-sided tape. I haven't done that, so you may want to search his threads for more info on that method.

Regardless of method used for adhering, it's probably best to also use some sort of mechanical stop (pins, screws, etc.) in conjunction with the adhesive.


Rob
 
You might want to a couple of sheat metal screws in the lower edge of the patten so that the glass rests up against the head to support if it it comes loose from the adhesive. Or you could find some other way to form a ledge for the glass to rest against that is mechaically attached to the platen.

Doug
 
Thanks all.

Dough, thank you for that piece of information. I've gone ahead and had my neighbor weld a shelf onto the angle iron.
 
Now that you've welded it, order a spare ceramic platen liner. It the one you have breaks, you won't be able to grind at all.

Also, be SURE your platen is very flat before gluing on the liner. The glue isn't enough to fill gaps effectively and the ceramic is not the least bit flexible.

The one I have on the grinder now has been there years but I broke a few while figuring it out.

Rob!
 
In my opinion, the ledge is the most critical part. You want full contact with the bottom edge of the glass, and you want to make sure that every is square and solid. The belt tension and the ledge pretty much does all the holding.

As Rob mentioned, I've been using some double sided carpet tape, quite successfully for several months now. This was based on a recommendation from Ray Rogers who has also had success with tape. If I recall, I use an exterior grade tape (probably 3m brand?) that I picked up at Menards. Make sure your platen backer is perfectly flat and straight. I also roughed mine up just a little bit for better adhesion. Then I make sure to thorougly clean both the platen backer and the glass liner with acetone and let it completely dry. I like to stick a piece of tape to each side (the back of the glass and the front of the platen backer) and make sure to get any air bubbles out and apply plenty of pressure.

Then it's just a matter of sticking the pieces of tape together and applying pressure to everything. I've gotten the back of my platen uncomfortably hot, and have done extensive grinding and hogging on my flat platen, and never had any hint of failure. In fact, I give a little tug on everything from time to time to make sure the tape hasn't loosened. So far, no problems. This came very much in handy when I recently replaced my glass liner due to wear. I just broke the glass, chipped it off, and scraped off the tape. Repeated steps listed above, and I was back in business in 15 minutes.
 
Just as another FYI, I've angled my platen forward for certain grinding applications, and still have not had and problems with movement or loosening of the tape.
 
Thanks guys. I made sure to flatten the steel substrate on a granite reference block and had made sure that everything was squared off and away. As for expecting a failure, I did make a backup platen using a piece of O-1 rather than glass. Hopefully the latter will be used sparingly. Again, thank you all for your help.

Andrew, I used your tape idea on the second one in case the two screws ever fail... a little overkill but hey, we're all a bit nuts.
 
Interesting that some are now going to the tape. I introduced the ceramic pyro ceran glass platen to the forums several years ago. When I did I said to use a double sided tape that did NOT have cloth or material in the center. I have been using this since I started and never had a problem with the glass coming loose or cracking. By means of a 100 cork belt you can clean up edges and corners and place a sloping edge on the top and bottom. They too will wear if you do lots of contour grinding. Take a torch, with a glove on one hand and a putty knife you can remove the glass and turn it over for another run. Frank
 
Well, I was out today trying to find that same tape I purchased about 12 years ago. As I should have expected I wasn't able to find any. I was hoping to be abe to pass along the maker's name . Frank
 
The tape I use has cloth in the middle (again, I think it's 3M brand, exterior grade carpet tape), and I've never had an issue.
 
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