Gorilla Glue?

Most epoxy is water resistant and not water proof, gorilla glue (poly) is water proof. That alone sold me on it, but when you couple it with the fact that its easier to clean off the mess, it makes it better in my view. Through reading various glue wars and doing some independent testing, the only epoxy that I found to work just as well is acryglass, but then again, I only tested adhesives that were within my reach with a modest budget.
 
Insight said:
So gorilla glue is better than epoxy?
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For my needs, yes it is better than most epoxy. I've read articles where gorilla glue has been used in outdoor projects and help up very good over time. There are a few knives that I put together over a year ago that have seen hard use and are still holding up. Truth be told, if the cost wasn't prohibitive, I'd opt for Acraglass knives that will be around solvents. All poly glue that I've tried tends to weaken with prolonged direct contact to solvents. But heck, what doesn't? As with everything, you should do your own testing and find what works best for you as there are too many variables in the application and usage of adhesives.
 
Here is what it says about Gorilla glue on Midwest Knife makers supply. I found this interesting and use this glue for everything !


"When I tested 2 dozen different glues several years ago, before I got in the supply business, I tested Gorilla Glue. It out performed nearly every other glue hands down. This stuff has amazing strength. It activates by exposure to water. Wet one side and apply glue to the other side of a joint and clamp tight. Wipe off any foam that oozes out. I use this stuff where ever I can because I know for a fact how strong it holds.

Tip: Gorilla Glue is a urethane and nearly all urethane glues "go off" with moisture. They will foam up. The foam has zero structural holding ability. You will need to clamp this until the glue sets.

Tip: When you open the bottle, this urethane will start to go stale. To keep the shelf life longer, squeeze as much air out of the bottle as possible before sealing it off with cap. The bottle will be all scrunched up but chances are the glue will still be "fresh" for many months after you open it.

Tip: One last tip. This glue will stain your skin. You will not be able to wash away the stain. Trust me on this one. Wear gloves or you will have dingy brown, dirty looking stained skin for several days."
 
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I have used Gorilla glue for years and not had a failure.
The foaming can be a bit of a hassle and you have to watch the blades for about two hours after gluing to make sure you have no foam out at the bolster area or any other place that can be problems later. Wipe with Acetone if there is a foam out.

I have moved over to the, West Systems G/flex Epoxy - 1-4oz of Resin and 1-4oz of Hardener,
that Bossdog sells for about $20.00 and have been very happy with the results. This is a superior epoxy to the Devcon epoxy that I used on and off since I started, The West Systems is for a Marine environment and I make culinary knives.

All three will work if you don't have the other handy but I now prefer the West Systems.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
I use Gorilla Glue to put liners to scales and when I am doing bolsters. This lets me pre-assemble everything. After the Gorilla Glue set I drill some holes through the liner to the scales so the epoxy can adhere to the scales as well, kinda like small hidden pins of epoxy. All my attaching to steel is done with G-Flex.
 
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