Homemade heat treat oven?

They send with a little extra wire which you cut into short pieces, bend a j, and just push them in. You should have a little extra wire on your coils also. In all you will have more than you need. Any more questions, just ask! Will help if I can.
Dave

Also, I did my door differently. If you search my posts, you can find a picture of mine.
 
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I made mine the same size as the Paragon 14 and it works perfect. I used a Omega CN 7600 series controller with 2 solid state relays. For the door I used 2 1/2" of blanket in a 2" door that way I get a perfect seal. I needed the oven in a hurry and rigged a couple pieces of angle iron back to back for the clasp and clamp it shut with a 2" vise grip C clamp and have never upgraded the lock. Once I figured out how to use the controller and numerous calls to Omega tech service I got this oven to hold temp to within 1 deg plus or minus at 1975 or any other temp that I set it at.

Tony
 
Tony Moyer said:
I made mine the same size as the Paragon 14 and it works perfect. I used a Omega CN 7600 series controller with 2 solid state relays. For the door I used 2 1/2" of blanket in a 2" door that way I get a perfect seal. I needed the oven in a hurry and rigged a couple pieces of angle iron back to back for the clasp and clamp it shut with a 2" vise grip C clamp and have never upgraded the lock. Once I figured out how to use the controller and numerous calls to Omega tech service I got this oven to hold temp to within 1 deg plus or minus at 1975 or any other temp that I set it at.

Tony
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Thanks for the info.
Do you have any pics of that door? I was wondering how your keeping the blanket in the door? I was thinking of using refactory cement to hold it in.
to finished today if all goes well. I wrapped the top, bottom and back of the oven with kawool.It should hold heat.:D


I should get the oven close
to finished today if all goes well.
 
I just cut the blanket oversize and stuffed it in the door, once the door is closed it will form and stay in on its own.

Tony
 
Andy presented this in a thread in one of the North American forums. Those that did build it said it worked real well. Frank
 
Frank Niro said:
Andy presented this in a thread in one of the North American forums. Those that did build it said it worked real well. Frank
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Thats good to hear Frank. I have also been hearing some positive feedback on here from guys who have made it.

I am at the mercy of my brother in law at this point. He is going to wire the oven into my breaker box. I know some basic wiring but if I can get him to do it I will let him. My hair wouldnt look good as a burnt afro.:D
 
A word of warning about the kao-wool. You should be sealing it with refractory mortar. Above 1600 degrees free silicates form. Prolonged exposure could cause silicosis.

Also worth noting if you seal it with Satanite then put a coating of ITC-100 on it the efficiency will increase dramatically. That ITC-100 is expensive but you just need a very light coating so $15 worth will do a whole forge.
 
torqueman said:
A word of warning about the kao-wool. You should be sealing it with refractory mortar. Above 1600 degrees free silicates form. Prolonged exposure could cause silicosis.

Also worth noting if you seal it with Satanite then put a coating of ITC-100 on it the efficiency will increase dramatically. That ITC-100 is expensive but you just need a very light coating so $15 worth will do a whole forge.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the warning torqueman. I had bought the stuff to do a coffee can forge about 8 months ago but never built it because the soft firebrick set up i had was working so good.
I did line it with satanite and I have some other stuff I cant remember what it was for but it was recommened. I will take the sealed kao wool out of that "coffee can " forge and use it for the door in my oven.cool 1
Thanks......I wish I could get this finished!
 
Wear a respirator when removing it from your old forge and don't do it in an enclosed area. The stuff underneath the satanite will contain those free silicates. The dangers may be somewhat overstated because you will not have a long time exposure but why take any chances?
 
Finally got it cooking!

Hey guys.
4 months later I got it cooking!
Im going to build a different box for it though.The elements need pinned in better also. I ended up using a cord for a clothes dryer to do the wiring.Worked perfect as I didnt need to add a breaker and outlet.
I was going to do a wip on this project but decided since I really didnt know what I was doing and the original tutorial was great I couldnt improve on the tutorial. :)

Heres a couple action shots of a 1080 blank cooking at over 1900.2thumbs
I still have some things to change and mount the controller but im excited and almost ready for some S.S!
 

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Looks good! I had the same problem with elements jumping their grooves after about a year using my first oven. For the second iterration, I made deeper/more angled grooves and pinned the coil really well. Just a note, after repeated firings, the coil tends to stiffen up, and it may be tough to get it to stay in the groove.

Also, you may want to fashion something to hold the blade on edge/spine instead of laying it flat. A slap of soft brick with a few nails stuck in it should do fine. That way the entire blade is evenly bathed in heat. Another thing, don't get the blade too close to the coils. Those coils are around 2300F when juice is going through them, so you may have some radiant over-heating if it's too close. I always position the blade as close to the center of the oven as possible.

--nathan
 
silver_pilate said:
Looks good! I had the same problem with elements jumping their grooves after about a year using my first oven. For the second iterration, I made deeper/more angled grooves and pinned the coil really well. Just a note, after repeated firings, the coil tends to stiffen up, and it may be tough to get it to stay in the groove.

Also, you may want to fashion something to hold the blade on edge/spine instead of laying it flat. A slap of soft brick with a few nails stuck in it should do fine. That way the entire blade is evenly bathed in heat. Another thing, don't get the blade too close to the coils. Those coils are around 2300F when juice is going through them, so you may have some radiant over-heating if it's too close. I always position the blade as close to the center of the oven as possible.

--nathan
Click to expand...

Thanks man.
You have been a big help thru this.cool 1
 
Heat up time

I just finished an oven on the same plans. How long does it take for your oven to come up to 1900? I test rine mine for ~45 minutes and it got to 1650 or so and was climbing slow.
 
My oven takes about 10 minutes to read 1500F. However, I keep it on for about 45 minutes to get fully heat-soaked prior to putting my blades in many times. It's kinda like a forge with a thermocouple installed. It will read 1800 in just a few minutes, but you and I know both know that the forge chamber isn't as hot at 2 minutes as it is when it's fully soaked and glowing like the sun at 30 minutes.

--nathan
 
Hey Shank,

I've been watching your thread as I'm building an oven off the same plans. Getting ready to do the door which I'm not looking forward to!

Quick question for those who have built a forge - Will adding a layer of 1" inswool between the brick and the housing add any benefit? How hot does the exterior get? Also, hoping Nathan might be able to chime in here, but if you are using a heat controller that can adjust from the input of 2 thermocouples where would be the best placement for them or is this just redundant? I already have TCs and the heat controller so it wouldn't cost anything extra to use 2 but if it won't help then...

Thanks again man!
 
amcardon said:
Hey Shank,

I've been watching your thread as I'm building an oven off the same plans. Getting ready to do the door which I'm not looking forward to!

Quick question for those who have built a forge - Will adding a layer of 1" inswool between the brick and the housing add any benefit? How hot does the exterior get? Also, hoping Nathan might be able to chime in here, but if you are using a heat controller that can adjust from the input of 2 thermocouples where would be the best placement for them or is this just redundant? I already have TCs and the heat controller so it wouldn't cost anything extra to use 2 but if it won't help then...

Thanks again man!
Click to expand...

The door wasnt as hard as I expected. I didnt put the brick in it. I just packed it with kawool as somebody on here suggested. I see most with heavy latches too which I dont see the need since there isnt any pressure.

I dont see the need for two TC'S in such a small area.

My oven was getting hotter on the outside then I liked. I wrapped it in a two inch thick layer of kaowool and built another box over the oven leaving the door exposed.This was overkill but with the ovens location I deemed it necessary. My original plans did not leave room for the kaowool . That is one of the things I will do different on my next one. It will keep your heat loss down and allow the oven to heat faster.

I will post a pic when I get it totally finished.
 
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