How far do you Corby?

Stew

Well-Known Member
So, corby bolts.

When countersinking them, I generally leave a bit of the post sticking out the far side of the tang like this:



so it sits in both scales.

However, do you think not having it going through to the opposite scale is acceptable for strength?



I know it's not a lot different in terms of depth but for some bigger knives I've found that I have to thin the scales more at the bolts than perhaps I want.
 
I suppose there's two concerns: Leaving enough head that you don't grind it off, and leaving enough scale under the head that it doesn't pull through. (Of course, you also want to have plenty of thread engagement, but this has never been an issue under normal circumstances).

Now, if you epoxy your scales as well as use corbies, both concerns become minimized somewhat, but generally I try to leave at least .060" under the head, and after grinding want AT LEAST that much head left. With 1/4" scales I'll usually try to split the difference more/less, though I have found that letting the female side extend through the tang a little bit does help locate the opposite scale when gluing up.

All that said, no matter what you do, you do want to make sure that the male thread tightens down all the way so that one or both sides aren't loose.
 
So, corby bolts.

When countersinking them, I generally leave a bit of the post sticking out the far side of the tang like this:



so it sits in both scales.

However, do you think not having it going through to the opposite scale is acceptable for strength?



I know it's not a lot different in terms of depth but for some bigger knives I've found that I have to thin the scales more at the bolts than perhaps I want.


Stew,
That's why I never took a shine to Corby's, If you are making your scales the same thickness every time you can set everything up just fine.

I even make my steak knife sets with different size scales cause people have different sized hands.

Lovelesss bolts are what I always use along with G-Flex.
 
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