HT Quenchant

murphda2

murphda2

Super Moderator and KD Blade Show Boss
OK guys, I'm really wanting to try my first HT but do not currently have access to Parks. What might I be able to readily put my hands on to use as a quenchant for 1084 and 1095? Is there another commonly found oil that might be almost as good? Also, I'm kind of curious how a synthetic oil would perform as a quenchant. Has anyone tried it?
 
Mcmaster-Carr 11 second quench oil, www.mcmaster.com . A 5 Gal. pail cost me $75 delivered. I'm not sure but I think they sell it by the gallon as well. Some say it won't work on 1095 but I find it does real well, although I have not had a blade actually tested for hardness and never anything thicker than 3/16". Hope this helps.
 
darrin sanders said:
Mcmaster-Carr 11 second quench oil, www.mcmaster.com . A 5 Gal. pail cost me $75 delivered. I'm not sure but I think they sell it by the gallon as well. Some say it won't work on 1095 but I find it does real well, although I have not had a blade actually tested for hardness and never anything thicker than 3/16". Hope this helps.
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I bought some of this oil also. It is really about the same price as the peanut oil, mineral oil, and vegetable oil and its made for quenching. You don't have to buy 5 gal either. It comes in 1 gal jugs also if you want to just try it.
I will try to do some Rockwell testing today to see if there is a difference.

This parks stuff everybody talks about either has the best marketing scheme ever or it doesn't exist. Its nowhere to be found available on all of the Internet but yet promoted as the best by everybody. They have worked the supply and demand idea to the fullest with this product.
Hard to believe there is not a generic equivalent out there yet.
 
I just tested one of my knives made of 1095 quenched in the mcmaster oil. It was a 59 ,58,59 in three different places. Thats two points higher then what I got with mineral oil and vegetable oil. I was only getting a 57 with those oils is why I tried the mcmaster.
The blades look a little cleaner coming out of the mcmaster oil also and the oil doesnt stink up the shop when temporing.
Needless to say I am happy with the oil.
 
I have been using the 11 sec oil from Mcmaser-car and say I have been quite pleased although I haven't tried it on 1095 I have used 1084 and mostly 5160 and both have performed well on my knives. I was told it is boarder line in speed for 1095 but I don't know personally. I am trying some 52100 and so far the test blade I made seems to work good but time will tell on it......steve
 
Hey shankmaker, glad to hear about a blade that has actually been tested after quenching with this oil. What temp. do you draw the 1095 to, or do you finish it as quenched?
 
darrin sanders said:
Hey shankmaker, glad to hear about a blade that has actually been tested after quenching with this oil. What temp. do you draw the 1095 to, or do you finish it as quenched?
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I tempored at 350 for an hour two times. I had meant to test rockwells after the quench and before temporing.

I heated the oil between 120 and 140.
I was using a thermometer in the oil and tried to keep the temp between these temps. I had the quench oil right next to the forge to get the blade straight in the oil.
 
Sounds good Shankmaker. I keep my oil in a large electric roaster about 8 inches below the door of my kiln, I also set the temp @ 130 that way it stays between 120 & 140. I would love to know the as quenched hardness of some 1095, if you get a chance to test a piece please let me know. Thanks in advance, Darrin.
 
1095 that is testing under 60 HRC when tempered at 350 doesn't sound right. Either your tester is out of calibration or you have a pearlite problem.

1095 should be around 64-66 out of quench and should still be in the low 60's with a 400 deg temper, so I suspect you didn't get full martensite conversion. Having other microstructures in your steel will reduce edge stability. There is more to achieving full hardness than just getting hard (that sounds a little perverted, doesn't it?).

I'd suggest you try a faster oil or better agitation for even better performance. The McMaster 11 second oil works fine for me *shrug*.
 
Murph

I know a proper HT oil would be better, but I use mineral oil at 130 deg and have had great results with 1084, 1095, and 5160.

On all 3 steels I have tested blades to destruction, and was pleased with the results. Not saying this is the best, but it is readily available. Check a feed store, or vet supply. I got mine at a pharmacy that was going out of business. Got 21 qts for .88 a qt!

God Bless
Mike
 
Nathan The Machinist said:
1095 that is testing under 60 HRC when tempered at 350 doesn't sound right. Either your tester is out of calibration or you have a pearlite problem.

1095 should be around 64-66 out of quench and should still be in the low 60's with a 400 deg temper, so I suspect you didn't get full martensite conversion. Having other microstructures in your steel will reduce edge stability. There is more to achieving full hardness than just getting hard (that sounds a little perverted, doesn't it?).

I'd suggest you try a faster oil or better agitation for even better performance. The McMaster 11 second oil works fine for me *shrug*.
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I agree Nathan. 59 rockwell is low.
Everything I have read says 1095 is a water quench steel so im sure i probably didnt get max rockwell at the quench using this oil. Lets say I only got 62 at quench, tempered it back some and my machine is off a point im probably close on the rockwell being correct. I probably didnt get full martensite conversion and have no way of telling.

The knives im making with this steel are going out as little friction folders as gifts to family and friends. I normally dont use 1095 but had to buy a six foot stick of it when I only needed about 10 inches. I dont feel i (PERSONALLY) can properly heat treat this steel so I will make some decent knives as gifts and go back to 1080 and start working with S.S. when my oven is finished.

My point with the oil was I did gain two points of rockwell over the other oils I had tried.
I do appreciate your advice on heatreating and hope I can pick your brain in the future.
Thanks!
 
Another oil that works well on 1095 is Brownells Tough Quench. You can buy it in 1 gallon cans from Brownells. I have been told it is Houghton G oil repacked by Brownells. I use it on 01, and 1095, it may be on the slow side for 1095, but it seems to work fine on knives due to the thin thickness of the steel. A chart found on another forum shows the data from Brownells as @ 100F- 11.5 secs. @ 150F- 10.0 secs. @ 200F- 11.0secs. On 01 I heat to 100 F and on 1095 @ 150 F. I wish I had a Rockwell tester to do some test.
 
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