Just some starter questions

[nvasquez88]

hello,my name is Nick, and I'm new to this whole knife making hobby and i'm currently working on a kitchen knife as my first project. I bought a bushmaster kit from Midwest knives and modified it to my own shape. I have just some general questions.

1. I used metal files and i was wondering what is a more preffered method of grinding, a belt sander, or a bench grinder? I've seen videos with both. in that same breath, what is a good base grit to use, type of belt/wheel... I am looking to perhaps purchase one soon so i would appreciate any suggestions
2. What is a good steel to use for my knives, i'm going for a more Japanese style kitchen knife and i want to be able to get them thin and hold a good edge. As well as last, me being a chef by trade i want something i can use consistently
3. Hardening tips? i used a mapgas plumbers torch and quenched it in canola oil... im sure i didnt do it exactly right but i know its trial and error.

Any other tips are greatly appreciated, I want to have a better understanding of what a good process is so my knives only continue to improve. Thanks so much
Nick

 

[rhinoknives]

Welcome to the pack.
I specialize in culinary knives and use all Stainless steels like CPM-154 CPM-S35VN and 440CSave up until you can get a 2 x72" belt grinder. The best grinder deal I know of is the first real machine I had .

http://www.cootebeltgrinder.com/prices.html One of these in 2 x 72" a 1 1/2HP motor and two step pulleys and some link belt and you will be a happy grinding fool making your own knives.
Norman Coote is a great guy and will help you anyway he can with the set up.
I can help you too!

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com

 

[rcknives]

Nick,

I agree with Laurence you will need to invest in a 2x72' belt grinder. I use a kmg belt grinder with a VFC controller and for me its the best. As far as steel goes you wont be able to achieve the temps to get the proper heat treat using the mapgas torch. Different steels require different temps and need to sustain those temps to "soak" for a specific time and the mapgas just wont do that. There are many variables to consider when making a knife using a grinder one the first ones is using a jig vs. not using one. When I first started making knives I started without a jig and have been doing them freehand ever since. This method does require practice because believe me you will ruin a few blades before you get it down. I hope this steers you in the right direction.

Robert Cabrera

 

[SHOKR]

Very good advice already given

However i noticed you refered to knife making as a hobby, so you might not be interested in large investment just yet, if thats not the case then yes, a 2*78" grinder with inverter (variable speed control) and as many accessories and attachement as you can get would be awesome, but that can reach up to 3K, if your approach is just a hobby and fun time and cant afford that i belt sander would give you more than a bench grinder (i am assuming you are refering to the ones with abrasive stones)
You get many levels of grit, you get flat grinding and slack as well, and the thin belt can reach tight spots and some if not all come withcround disc sander (you use sand paper on those to work flat surfaces) thats a plus too

If you can spare more then go for a bigger grinder with pulleys, if you can do more than speed controler, you get the idea

(i am new to this as well btw so i remember all the research, but i did invest in a very good grinder (bought used) and i am happy with that)

As for steel and you probably got the better advice already, for kitchen knives best go with stainless, but as far as i know you beat send it to heat treater
If interested in general start up steel you can go with O1 which is very simple to work and to heat treat even
Just keep in mind that kitchen knives are already very thin by nature, so best heat trwat it THEN grind the bevel to avoid in warpage or other trouble

Hope that helps

Btw many knife makers are willing to have you in their workshop and give you piinters, maybe a visit and seeing all that help you decide even better

 

[DonL]

Nick, welcome to the insanity that is knife making!

First off, you'll learn that if you ask a question, you'll likely get a different response from nearly everyone you meet! Doesn't make it right or wrong in most cases. Just do further research until you're convinced the info you're receiving is correct for your situation.

I started with some 01 and 1095. Looking back, that wasn't the best steel. Both steels require some soak time at temperature and both require different quench oils with different cooling speeds. Does that mean you can't get a hardened knife with simply heating with a map gas? No, because you can. It just means you'll not be getting the most from those steels. I'd avoid stainless steel unless you plan on sending your blades off to be heat treated. They require very high temps and a complex heat treatment routine. You'd need a heat treating furnace and some experience to turn out knife blades from stainless steel.

If I were starting out again knowing what I know now, I'd use either the 1080+ High Carbon Steel from Alpha Knife Supply or 1084 from New Jersey Steel Baron. You can get both in thin stock to make Kitchen knives and both have simple heat treats that you can do at home. Both can be quenched in Canola oil for acceptable results (make sure you warm the oil to the 120 to 130 degrees for best results with canola).

If you're using MAP gas or Propane, get a good head like the Bernz-O-Matic TS-8000. It will produce plenty of heat to get your blades above 1500. Look up 'paint can forge' on youtube for an idea on how to build a forge on the cheap to do your heat treating.

You're other option is to send your blades off to someone to be heat treated. Texas Knife Supply will do single blades as well as Darrin Sanders here on the forums. Both have reasonable rates. I would use them if I were using any other steel other than 1080 or 1084 to start out with.

As for grinders, a 2x72 with variable speed would be the Cat's meow, but unless you have a wad of cash laying around, there are less expensive options for the beginner. Mind you they're not ideal. If you see this as becoming a long term hobby or something you may want to take up full time down the road, then I would save up for a 2x72. Otherwise look into the Craftsman 2x42 belt sander. It's under powered and runs too fast and it has a pretty sharp learning curve, but with practice it can turn out some nice knives. It will set you back about $150.

You can purchase belts at TruGrit.com. Not sure if Boss carries the 2x42 belts at USA Knifemakers. I'd recommend a couple Norton Blaze belts in 60, 80 and 120 grits. Then I'd recommend some Klingspore belts in 220 and 400. Later on after you're grinding gets better, you may want to try the 3M Gator Trizact belts. Grinding is a skill that can take quite a while to learn. So don't get discouraged if your first few attempts don't turn out like you think it will. It may take you 20 or 30 blades before you start feeling confident about your grinding ability.

There's no shame in using files and sandpaper to make your knives. It will take longer but you'll likely find you mess up less. You can ruin a knife blade in a blink of an eye with a grinder.

I'd avoid a bench grinder like the plague. In general, they're too fast and produce questionable results at best. Yeah it can be done, but it's going to be near impossible to finish a blade with one. Belt grinders give you so many more options it isn't funny. There's a reason the vast majority of knife makers use belt grinders!

Good luck and make sure you post some pics of your blades!