Kmg problem.

Guindesigns said:
ok ill check it tonight and see if that fixes it. and yes its plugged directly into a wall oulet.
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See how many things are on that same line with the receptacle that powers your grinder! Even if you are plugged directly into the wall, if other things are on that same line that may run while your grinder is on it can starve the power to the grinder. Also check the breaker to see what it is rated at.

If you have a microwave or a refrigerator in a house it is best to have them on a dedicated line, (by themselves)! In my kitchen the ran a dedicated line for the microwave. Without thinking we plugged a toaster oven into that same outlet, (cause the cord on the toaster won't reach to another outlet)! :rolleyes:.
To make a long story short, my wife likes her frozen waffles nuked in the microwave, I like mine toasted in the toaster oven. So one morning I have the toaster on and she pops her waffles into the microwave hits the button and,...……………… there goes the breaker.
The breaker is rated to handle the high amps the microwave pulls but, the toaster oven is another high amperage hog and as soon as both are turned on at the same time, the demand for amperage is more than the breaker can handle.
Often in house wiring they pull a line to the garage, every receptacle in the garage is on that same line, plus sometimes another part of the house. As long as all of them are not being used no problem. However if you two or three things running it can cut the amperage down to where it creates a problem!!

Distance from the breaker box can be a problem as well if they didn't wire the garage with heavy enough wire. Contractors are notorious for not going over what the prints call for. Just because it can be done, doesn't always mean it is a good practice to do it!!!
 
This is a pic of the 1.5 HP from the 2HP looks exactly like it! Here are the statistics for the 1.5HP.

The KMG was designed around this motor using the step pulley system. Will run on 110 or 220V.

Heavy Duty Single Phase Hi-Torque Motor is designed specifically for severe “Farm Duty” applications. The motors have double sealed ball bearings.

  • 1.5 hp
  • 1725 rpm
  • 5/8″ shaft
  • 110 or 220VAC single phase 60hz.
1534609061341.pngThe statistics for the 2 HP are as follows!

Heavy Duty Single Phase Hi-Torque Motor is designed specifically for severe “Farm Duty” applications. The motors have double sealed ball bearings.

  • 2 hp
  • 1725 RPM
  • 7/8″ shaft
  • 220VAC single phase 60hz.

Notice the bottom statistics on both motors! They are both single phase however the 2HP can only be ran on 220VAC.

I will guarantee if you can put that 1.5HP on a 220 VAC circuit it will out perform, that same motor on a circuit wired for 110VAC! If you decide to do that you will have to change the wiring on the 1.5 HP!

WHY ~ Here is something I pulled off the net and it will help you to understand the why!
Let's say you are going to install a 3KW motor in your house and you can choose between a 110V or 220V motor. If you go with the 110V motor, it will draw 27A, therefore requiring a 30A breaker and 10AWG wire ran. If you go with the 220V motor, it is going to draw 14A, so you can install a 15A breaker and run 14AWG wire.

That same motor draws more amperage at wired as 110V than if it is wired as 220V! It also requires a larger wire to carry that amperage wired as a 110V rather that if it is wired as a 220V.

Now here is the part that is not mentioned in the above scenario. Wired as 110V or wired as 220V. The capacitor on each motor will require at startup every bit of that 27A for a 110V and 30A for 220V! That hump on the motor is the capacitor and it takes the available amperage at the breaker and kicks it up at start up to get that motor up to running speed.

If you do not have that motor on a sufficient size breaker, or the wiring is not sufficient or their is other things that are running at startup on that same circuit! That motor will labor to get up to speed and will slowly be burning up the motor.

There are others on here that can explain electrical much better than myself! I know what it does but as for explaining to someone else I struggle!!
I hope this helps on the underpower problems!!
 
Looked at both videos. Looks pretty good to me. Did you simply increase tool arm tension? The small wheel can likely still be improved by rotating the whole holder counter clockwise just a fraction of a degree (as your looking down from the top) and then tightening everything back up.

I have a hard time believing you're bogging a 1.5hp down easily. Are you sure the drive belt isn't just slipping? Typical belt deflection should be around 1/64" per 1" of belt span between pulleys, if pushing down on the belt in the middle of the span.
 
Guin, from that last video with the small wheel, it looks good. The belt is centered on the small wheel, and looks good on the tracking wheel. Looks like you've got it working nicely now. Is the motor still bogging down?
 
OK you did help it immensely! I am gonna go against the grain a bit here! I am not sure I can do this but here goes!! In this shot you have a level laying along side the grinder. Watch your video at 0:08 stop the video. Lets assume the level is your straight line I was trying to reference in the drawing below by using the blue line. Notice how that level is laying not completely parallel to the belt.

If you use the level as your straight line and slide it towards the grinder, till when you square up from the line at the drive pulley and square up from the wheel on the small wheel attachment. I think you are going to find the adjustment/tracking wheel does not line up on that same line, (the blue line) it appears to be further out than either of the two points at the drive wheel and the small wheel attachment! Some of this could be the camera angle but I can't tell for sure!!

Your level becomes the blue line. If your grinder is built square, then you should be able to measure from the base plate out to the face of the drive wheel and square up. Lets say that measurement is 5"!
In theory if the machine is built square, it should be that same 5" from the base to the outside of the small wheel or ten" wheel!
That tracking wheel will not be off more than a hair and you should be able to adjust it out in the tracking.

If all three of those point will not square up off of the blue line, the pulley are not truly in line!! That is the reason you are having to run the belt so far off to the left of the tracking pulley.

The further you have to push the belt from center of the tracking pulley to make the belt track the more vibration you will get from the belt.

If all three points are in line and square up, it will only take a tweak of the tracking pulley to make the belt run true.

To remedy the line up of the pulleys you may need to adjust the drive pulley in or out to make the three of them line up! I am not familiar with the small wheel attachment as I don't use one, so I don't know it there is lateral adjustment their or not!

By the way I am with Andrew on the motor I use the 2 HP and it hangs on a bracket so I use the weight of the motor for tension on the belt! I hope you can see this pic. http://s164.photobucket.com/user/cr...forge cart/GrinderCart011.jpg.html?sort=6&o=8

Try this when you get your grinder running find some way to put more tension on the belt and see if, the bogging down problem doesn't quit with the added belt tension!
1535068713371.png
 
Ok
C Craft said:
OK you did help it immensely! I am gonna go against the grain a bit here! I am not sure I can do this but here goes!! In this shot you have a level laying along side the grinder. Watch your video at 0:08 stop the video. Lets assume the level is your straight line I was trying to reference in the drawing below by using the blue line. Notice how that level is laying not completely parallel to the belt.

If you use the level as your straight line and slide it towards the grinder, till when you square up from the line at the drive pulley and square up from the wheel on the small wheel attachment. I think you are going to find the adjustment/tracking wheel does not line up on that same line, (the blue line) it appears to be further out than either of the two points at the drive wheel and the small wheel attachment! Some of this could be the camera angle but I can't tell for sure!!

Your level becomes the blue line. If your grinder is built square, then you should be able to measure from the base plate out to the face of the drive wheel and square up. Lets say that measurement is 5"!
In theory if the machine is built square, it should be that same 5" from the base to the outside of the small wheel or ten" wheel!
That tracking wheel will not be off more than a hair and you should be able to adjust it out in the tracking.

If all three of those point will not square up off of the blue line, the pulley are not truly in line!! That is the reason you are having to run the belt so far off to the left of the tracking pulley.

The further you have to push the belt from center of the tracking pulley to make the belt track the more vibration you will get from the belt.

If all three points are in line and square up, it will only take a tweak of the tracking pulley to make the belt run true.

To remedy the line up of the pulleys you may need to adjust the drive pulley in or out to make the three of them line up! I am not familiar with the small wheel attachment as I don't use one, so I don't know it there is lateral adjustment their or not!

By the way I am with Andrew on the motor I use the 2 HP and it hangs on a bracket so I use the weight of the motor for tension on the belt! I hope you can see this pic. http://s164.photobucket.com/user/craft5759/media/Grinder forge cart/GrinderCart011.jpg.html?sort=6&o=8

Try this when you get your grinder running find some way to put more tension on the belt and see if, the bogging down problem doesn't quit with the added belt tension!
View attachment 64612
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Ok I check to see if they are in alignment they are deed in line with each other everything is in line
 
Ok so my belt is slipping. I bog down my machine till it stalled out the belt and pulleys kept running on the machine but not on the motor but not on the grinder so I believe I need to move my grinder back I'm tightening the belt
 
That should help with the bogging issue. The pic of mine with the weight of the motor doing the tension it has never been an issue! If you can see it in the pic that motor the 2HP has two starting capacitors on it.

Running it on 220V when you hit that switch there is so much torque thrown on the motor it actually jumps up about 1 1/2".

I got scared it would throw the motor high enough the belt would not fall back into the V of the pulley, throwing the belt or damaging it! I put that spring on it to keep the jump to a minimum. It will still jump on start up but just that small spring was enough to hold it down enough to stop it jumping out of the groove in the pulley!!

These machines are something you will always have to work on, listen for the tell tale of something in the sound changing. It could be a bad belt, it could be a bearing going bad, but each sound change means something!

When it does beware. You will sometimes get a two second warning before the belt breaks. You will hear something in the sound change!! A sanding belt at that RPM can eat your lunch!! :eek: Don't ask how I know!! :p
 
Guindesigns said:
Ok so my belt is slipping. I bog down my machine till it stalled out the belt and pulleys kept running on the machine but not on the motor but not on the grinder so I believe I need to move my grinder back I'm tightening the belt
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If you're using the KMG baseplate, then the motor foot mount is slotted. You want to loosen the foot mount bolts and move the motor to tension the v-belt. If your v-belt keeps getting loose it is likely you have a little misalignment between the motor pulley and the driven pulley. I use a long straightedge to check that they are in line. Your v-belt should run pretty smooth. If it looks like it has a bunch of bounce when the grinder is running that's a good indicator of a minor misalignment.

You want that v-belt pretty tight. I like about 1/4" of deflection when I push down on the belt in the middle of the span. If the v-belt has been slipping a bunch it may have gotten glazed. If it's shiny and keeps slipping after you tighten it, then I'd replace it.
 
C Craft said:
That should help with the bogging issue. The pic of mine with the weight of the motor doing the tension it has never been an issue! If you can see it in the pic that motor the 2HP has two starting capacitors on it.

Running it on 220V when you hit that switch there is so much torque thrown on the motor it actually jumps up about 1 1/2".

I got scared it would throw the motor high enough the belt would not fall back into the V of the pulley, throwing the belt or damaging it! I put that spring on it to keep the jump to a minimum. It will still jump on start up but just that small spring was enough to hold it down enough to stop it jumping out of the groove in the pulley!!

These machines are something you will always have to work on, listen for the tell tale of something in the sound changing. It could be a bad belt, it could be a bearing going bad, but each sound change means something!

When it does beware. You will sometimes get a two second warning before the belt breaks. You will hear something in the sound change!! A sanding belt at that RPM can eat your lunch!! :eek: Don't ask how I know!! :p
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Oh I know. Ouch..
 
One Armed said:
Well I’m a bit late to dinner here but.....

I would have guessed skipping v-belt immediately! I run a Dayton 1.5hp on my build and i can’t stall it! Of course I could if I REALLY wanted to, but not in any of my grinding has it come close. Now I run it on 220v and with a VFD. And I know there is *some loss of power by running 110v, however I never seen THAT much loss!

That first video...MAN was that some serious belt jump! The second video, it looks great! What did you end up doing to remedy the situation btw? Was it just the belt causing it?
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Yea that 36 grit I was running was about dead I put a new one on and BAM fixed. But I have heard that SWA need to be ran on a slower setting so does that mean when I'm using it not to run wide open?? cause that may have been part of the problem as well.

also after adjusting my motor to stay tight I is really hard to move my belt up and down on the pulleys does this mean i have to loosen my motor every time i want to change speed or will the belt loosen enough over time that i can do it by hand.

I still have so much to learn about my KMG.
 
No. keep your motor in place. The belt will stretch enough to get over the wall of the sheave when you want it to. If it’s too tight to change speeds then it simply too tight.
 
I also have a KMG. At first I had the belt tension set so I could adjust the belt on different pulleys by hand. When I rearranged my shop I set the belt on the middle pulleys and set it tight. I’ve noticed the grinder runs much better with no belt slipping.
I don’t like to run it on high - eats metel to fast for my experience. I can change it by hand but it’s not easy
 
Don’t get discouraged. Everyone struggles with their grinder at first. Speaking for myself, I was completely disgusted when I got my grinder. I was expecting my knives to take this quantum leap forward with my 2x72 and they got worse! I ended up salvaging eight knives with a file because my bevels off the grinder were terrible.

I had problems like belt tension and terrible plunge lines. I ground blades into toothpicks. I made deep gouges in everything. It was a disaster.

BUT

I started looking at things one by one, just like you are doing. I put my motor in the right place. I lined up my wheels. I put the grinder at the right height (!). I added a glass plate to the platen. I made everything square and even on center.

All these little things create crazy problems. When something weird is happening, look for a very simple cause. I promise you’ll find it.
 
Right on. Power tools make things easier and faster in the long run, but they can also turn a small mistake into a disaster in the blink of an eye.

The lightbulb moment for me on the grinder was learning to be absolutely robotic. You can’t know if the problem is you or the grinder if your approach on each pass is all over the place.
 
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