Laminate for Idiots

C

CMN

Member
good morning just wanted to post up some info on laminate working. This especially applies to those of us with just the basic tools and machines. So here goes: working with laminate, aka - micarta, g10, or whatever you want to call it, was kicking my ass. apparently this material does not respond well to power tools.( like jigsaws, scroll saws or jig tables ) Sure you can belt sand it, but if your scales have a curve or are not the standard 1.5 by 5 ( or whatever ) than using a belt sander is gonna take forever, and gonna ruin that belt. and, yes, as many have suggested just using a coping saw to rough cut the shape is Good advice.

here's what i do after that...i take both scales, drill and rout them and then bolt them to the previously drilled tang. I use chain bolts as a temporary fix before the permanent mounting so for me this method is fairly easy. SO- with the rough scales mounted to the tang run it through the jig table - SLOWLY and carefully to put a finer shape on your scales or match them up to your full tang. then sand while still on the tang getting the two scales as perfect as you want them. Having the scales attached to the tang, and therefore the knife itself, gives you a larger degree of control ( and safety ) while using the jig table ( in my case ) to carefully remove excess laminate from your handle scales.

Note: for me heat is one of my last steps so if I dork up the steel while finishing up the scales, the steel is still soft enough to be polished back up with no worries.

I'm sure my processes may sound back-asswards to some, but it works for me and i haven't had any formal training to tell me different.

comments and constructive critique welcomed.
Chris
 
Another thing that may help is a rotary tool with a sanding drum or a sanding drum on your drill.
 
I have been useing Linen,Paper, Canvas and Rag Micarta for 43 years and have never had a problem cutting it wit a Bandsaw or even a Coping Saw,G10 is a Fiberglass composition and I cut it on my metal cutting Bandsaw all the time.I clamp my handle slabes on my tang,Drill all holes,scrib the outline of my tang on the handle material then cut it out on the band saw.
Never had much of a problem.
 
I also use a metal band saw and a belt grinder with no problems. A dremel tool for sculpting. I finish my handles to 95% before heat treat. On both micarta and G10 I use alcohol to remove the dust and tung oil to enhance the color. My final buff is with Diamond White and the final coat is a mixture between bee wax and linseed oil.
 
that's awesome. and TY for the material finishing tips, and the Dremel suggestion. I do not have a band saw,( nor the means to purchase one ) though i can see where that would be better. The continuous circular motion of the band saw blade would make the material more controlled as opposed to the jumping up and down of a jig blade. But one makes due with what he has. But happy to know I am on the right track, at least.
 
A porta band saw is some times cheap enough if you find them at an auction or thrift second hand store. Harbor freight sells a cut off band saw for not alot I believe? Your in the same boat I am have to sell 2 or 3 knives to have the extra to buy another tool or materials. I feel the brokeness as well. CMN
 
thanks fro all the good info guys I appreciate it. On a redirect to Mr. Brackett. You use a bench style polisher and stick media to polish your laminate handles ? and - why the final coat ? isn't laminate water / weather proof ?

thanks again.
 
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