Looking for a source...

TacticallySharp

TacticallySharp

KNIFE MAKER
I am working on a design for a controlled blown forge burner and need a source for a silenoide for LP gas. 1/4", 110v, 60 Hz, 15 psi rated.

Thank you for any help you can provide.
 
Ebay. Search for "Red Hat Solenoid" The brand is ASCO.

I think I got mine for about $30 new in the box.

There are about million configurations for these valves so be absolutely sure you get what you need.

I'll get the specs on mine for you later. Still too dark in the garage to see the numbers on it ;)

-Josh
 
Don't know what sort of burner you have in mind, but if you're thinking of a ribbon burner, you should consider a larger solenoid...3/8-1/2".
Josh is correct, imho, on the red hat. I've purchased several on ebay. You might talk to your local hvac guy.
John
 
I'm building a two stage hi-low blown burner. Do you have photos of a controllable ribbon burner? I'm also building a vertical forge out of a propane tank. I'm looking to have better control of my forging temps.

Thank you Dogs for your help!
 
Nice photos, need to research this a bit further. I had look at this before based on info I got from my friend Fred. I will look at it again.
 
After thinking about it I'm believe I'm going with something like in my drawing.

My Blown Blown Desgin-001.jpg

I hope this will let me set my low temp based on the needle valve on the straight line and the solenoid would control the high side. That line valve would be full open so the solenoid can do it's function.

I plan to use 3/8" brass tubing and fittings for the gas side. A 3/32" hole in center of a end cap as the nozzle. 1 1/2" black pipe and fittings for the blower tube. 100 cfm blower with slider plate to control the air flow.

Comments or advice welcome...
 
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I'll share some random thoughts since I have basically this exact set-up on my forge.

Go for some big interior volume to get more accurate temps. You're on the right track going vertical IMHO.

Folks have built these to hold really accurate temps. Mine does not. I'll get 60 to 80 degree swings in temps. I believe this is due to my burner being oversize for my horizontal forge with a 4" chamber.

You should not need a "nozzle" for a blown burner. -I could be wrong but I believe the nozzle gives velocity to the air gas mix but with a blown burner that is taken care of by the blower.

I do all my critical HT operations in my Evenheat but I'm assuming you want this level of temp control for HT not necessarily forging out blades.

Because I rely on my oven for HT I would've been served just as well going with a simple venturi burner for forging.

I've got a few friends who've built drum forges for HT and get real steady temps without going the PID controlled route. For me I use my forge and oven as a team and wouldn't change that.

Forgot to mention- If you have trouble finding a suitable forge body my local steel folks Don Bell inc. have some large diameter pipe that would be perfect for a big vertical.

-Josh
 
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One thing to consider is that the blower will always be running even when the soleniod/thermocouple cut the gas off when the temp set point is reached. If you plan to make damascus, this could be a consideration as to where you place the burner entry. Just a thought.
John
Also, I wrote a how-to article on the ribbon burner that was published in the Hammers Blow mag. You may want to research the ABANA archives if you're interested.
 
I use an oven for tempering. I have a forge for my regular work. This is for my planned larger stuff and damascus later when I get there. I saw the cap with hole on another site used in a blown burner. A lot of my info has come from Geoff Keyes work I have read. I also read what a couple of glass blowers are using. The ribbon burner may still be a good option if I can figure out how to use it in a vertical forge.

My new floor plan includes a vertical for damascus which all ABS Bladesmiths end up making sooner or later.

I have a 40 size propane tank to use as the burner body. The valve on it was damaged and my gas supplier gave it to me to use. I plan on cutting it down to size. (I'm sure he know a forge that size will use more gas than I"m buying now)
 
My part number is no longer used so that isn't going to be much use for you.

This current production valve should be what you're looking for-
http://www.ascovalve.com/Applicatio...sortOrder=0&prodType=all&cmalias=&newView=yes

The specific features you're looking for are-

2 way. Only one inlet and one outlet.
NC Normally Closed. This means the gas will be shut off in the event you lose electricity
110/60 110volt 60 hertz Standard electricity from a wall outlet.
Low pressure is sufficient. Were dealing with PSI in the single digits. The high pressure solenoids go up to like 1500 PSI.
The one linked above is a 3/8NPT fitting. Mine is a 1/4NPT.

Here is a link to Asco's catalog so you can lookup the valve specs if shopping ebay-
http://www.ascovalve.com/Applications/ProductSearch/ProductSearch.aspx?ascowiz=yes


Nice chatting with you today :)

-Josh
 
Josh,

Thanks for the info! I enjoyed our chat also. It's always great to talk with someone that has your same interest.

Regards,

George
 
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