Misc. Folder Questions

DonL

DonL

Well-Known Member
Okay, I'm really wanting to branch out into folders. I love my fixed blades and there are a million and one things I still want to experiment with making fixed bladed knives, but on the other hand I really want to make a liner lock or three and then try a few slip joints. I'm hoping that as soon as I get this divorce stuff behind me and find me a new place, I can get started.

Anyway, here's a few questions I have. I asked a few on another forum but I wanted to pick the brains of folder makers here.

Titanium - I've real that 6AL 4V is the way to go when choosing Ti because it's springy. But I've also read that 6242 is a little less springy but grinds and finishes better. Are the two really similar in performance? I'd like to try 6242 since it's suppose to finish up better but if there's a big difference in performance, I'll just grin and bear it and use 6AL 4V.

Ti sizes - From what I can gather, .040 to about .055 is a good size for liner locks and in the .100 a good size for frame locks. Is this a good general rule? If not, what would you suggest? (I've bought a few cheap liner locks over the years and this is the size range they're in)

Resources - It seems that the book "The Tactical Folding Knife" by Bob Terzuola is the go-to book for making folders. The only problem is it's not published any longer and the ones you can find are in the $100 to $150 range. Is there another DVD or book you'd recommend for info on making/designing folders? And is Bob's book worth the coin?

Shields - I think shields on slip joints are just awesome. But I'm a little perplexed as to how to inlay them. It looks like the old school way is with a two legged parser, but good luck finding one of those! From what I could find (which was very little) most makers use a mill or a router bit in their dremel's or Foredom's. Is this correct? Don't want to go and buy a mill then learn how to use it just for shields. I think I can make an old fashioned parser. Just wondering how modern makers do it.

Okay, that should be enough for now ;) I appreciate everyone's time and I believe I'm right on most of my thoughts, I just need a little confirmation and guidance at this point. I'm still a little ways from being able to get started with folders, but I want to be ready when I get another place.
 
DonL said:
Okay, I'm really wanting to branch out into folders. I love my fixed blades and there are a million and one things I still want to experiment with making fixed bladed knives, but on the other hand I really want to make a liner lock or three and then try a few slip joints. I'm hoping that as soon as I get this divorce stuff behind me and find me a new place, I can get started.

Anyway, here's a few questions I have. I asked a few on another forum but I wanted to pick the brains of folder makers here.

Titanium - I've real that 6AL 4V is the way to go when choosing Ti because it's springy. But I've also read that 6242 is a little less springy but grinds and finishes better. Are the two really similar in performance? I'd like to try 6242 since it's suppose to finish up better but if there's a big difference in performance, I'll just grin and bear it and use 6AL 4V.

Ti sizes - From what I can gather, .040 to about .055 is a good size for liner locks and in the .100 a good size for frame locks. Is this a good general rule? If not, what would you suggest? (I've bought a few cheap liner locks over the years and this is the size range they're in)

Resources - It seems that the book "The Tactical Folding Knife" by Bob Terzuola is the go-to book for making folders. The only problem is it's not published any longer and the ones you can find are in the $100 to $150 range. Is there another DVD or book you'd recommend for info on making/designing folders? And is Bob's book worth the coin?

Shields - I think shields on slip joints are just awesome. But I'm a little perplexed as to how to inlay them. It looks like the old school way is with a two legged parser, but good luck finding one of those! From what I could find (which was very little) most makers use a mill or a router bit in their dremel's or Foredom's. Is this correct? Don't want to go and buy a mill then learn how to use it just for shields. I think I can make an old fashioned parser. Just wondering how modern makers do it.

Okay, that should be enough for now ;) I appreciate everyone's time and I believe I'm right on most of my thoughts, I just need a little confirmation and guidance at this point. I'm still a little ways from being able to get started with folders, but I want to be ready when I get another place.
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DonL,
Here are the slim pickings from my little brain.
Titanium- I use 6al4v,never tried the other stuff,I don't have any trouble grinding or finishing it. The only grinding I do on the liners is profiling and the only finishing I do on it is jeweling. The toughest part of working with titanium is tapping for the 0-80 screws I use but since I got a Tapmatic that part is very easy to do.

Ti sizes- I wouldn't use less than .050" for liners,I've never made a frame lock but I'm sure a minimum of .100" would work.

Resources- I never read a book about making liner lock knives,I learned by being taught by another maker.

Shields- I inlay my shields on my pantograph but you can make a parser and do it that way. Inlaying shields will be the least of your problems to overcome when making slipjoints.:biggrin:

Calvin
 
DonL said:
Anyway, here's a few questions I have. I asked a few on another forum but I wanted to pick the brains of folder makers here.



6AL 4V is the way to go



Ti sizes - From what I can gather, .040 to about .055 is a good size for liner locks and in the .100 a good size for frame locks. Is this a good general rule? If not, what would you suggest? (I've bought a few cheap liner locks over the years and this is the size range they're in)


Yes.



Resources - It seems that the book "The Tactical Folding Knife" by Bob Terzuola is the go-to book for making folders. The only problem is it's not published any longer and the ones you can find are in the $100 to $150 range. Is there another DVD or book you'd recommend for info on making/designing folders? And is Bob's book worth the coin?


I think you will find what you need here. Go to Amazon.com.my way book

Shields - I think shields on slip joints are just awesome. But I'm a little perplexed as to how to inlay them. It looks like the old school way is with a two legged parser, but good luck finding one of those! From what I could find (which was very little) most makers use a mill or a router bit in their dremel's or Foredom's. Is this correct? Don't want to go and buy a mill then learn how to use it just for shields. I think I can make an old fashioned parser. Just wondering how modern makers do it.


Here's a DVD on linerlocks too.


http://www.amazon.com/Locking-Liner-The-Robinson-Dvds
Click to expand...
 
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DonL, Let me say this first. I am not an expert on folders, but I have made a few. And not too good either, but they are getting better.
One of the first problems I had to figure out had to do with the thickness of the liners. I finally got it thru my think skull. The liner should be at least as thick as the ball bearing detent ball less the washer. I use a 1/16" (.0625) bearing. Nylatron washers I was using were .013. That said, the liner needs to be .0495. That being said, I buy .050 titanium now. My first folder were binding up when I tried to close them because I was not using the right parts. You can buy different thickness of washers, ball bearings and titanium. But you can't put 5 quarts in a gallon bucket.

Midwest knifemakers sell the shields and guides for inlaying them. Keith Johnson has a tutorial on doing that. It is a well written how-to, worth reading.

Oh, I also found Don's DVD on making liner locks more helpful than anything else I could find at the time.

I hope I have this all correct. If not, someone can jump in and correct me. Thanks, and good luck.
 
Jim,
If your ball sticks out the back of your liner just drill a clearance depression in your liner material behind the ball.
 
Thanks guys. That was a load of help. Jim, I appreciate that tidbit of info, it helps me to know which size to start with and what to look out for. Don, I saw your DVD and book on Amazon a while back, glad to know you're on the forum also. Calvin, I appreciate the info. You know, the more I looked at those Parsers, the more I figured I could make one if I found the right stuff. My buddy's dad is a farmer and has loads of old combines with spring arms. I think they may make a good Parser.
 
Cal, I never thought of that. I tried, without much success, grinding the ball bearing off on the back side. It always got mucked up. I never thought of a relief hole to allow for the thickness. That would go into the bolster.
thanks for the tip!
 
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