My first truly trashed blade

BRad704

Well-Known Member
Was working on a 1095 blade today and have been concerned about the final hardness after heat treating. I thought I had read somewhere that a 6s oil quench, followed by a water quench would work for 1095... Apparently not.... LOL

cracked across the ricasso, right where I had 2 1/8" holes drilled for a bolster... What's funny is that I think this is funny. I should be at least a little upset about the amount of time wasted, but I am fairly entertained by this failure. :)
 
what type of oil are you using? I imagine that might have a lot to do with it if the oil isn't cooling the blade enough before you quench in the water.
 
I think I rushed my count to 5... and honestly, I was using 5w30 motor oil... :|

This is also why I have started shipping out blades for heat treating when it is one that I'm looking to sell.
 
Hey brad maybe this will make you feel better ..... Two spots in my raffle .. For a cool billet ..... You can check it out on my makers site. "billet for a friend" good luck
 
but I am fairly entertained by this failure.
And I am tickled that it happens to others...
I water quench everything...I've broke a lot of stuff but when it works...it works good!!
 
I think I rushed my count to 5... and honestly, I was using 5w30 motor oil... :|

This is also why I have started shipping out blades for heat treating when it is one that I'm looking to sell.

Did you pre-heat the oil at all?

Personally, if I were going for a "low cost" quench for 1095, I'd probably opt for some canola oil preheated to about 130F. That being said, I use Parks 50 for my 1095 blades, and I've NEVER broken one. It may seem a little steep price wise (I think I paid about $130 to $140 shipped from Maxim Oil), but when you factor in things like lost time on broken blades from brine quenches (or otherwise), consistent results that you get from Parks 50, and the fact that 5 gallons will last you for years and years, it really turns out to be a rather cheap investment.
 
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