Curtiss Knives
KD Founding Member #1, Knifemaker
Tom, great tutorial! This should answer a lot of makers questions. Could I post a reference to this for our contest we have going? http://www.knifedogs.com/showthread.php?t=3566
My Frame-Lock Tutorial
- Thread starter Tom Anderson
- Start date
Tom Anderson
Artistry in Titanium
I like to pre-etch Damasteel to make sure I have all the scratches out of the surface before the blade goes to heat treat. Since this involves using ferric chloride, I mask off the washer area with some special adhesive acid resistant discs and put a dab of nail polish on the areas where the blade contacts the stop pin.
Into the ferric chloride it goes! After about 5 minutes, I neutralize it in a white vinegar/distilled water bath...
...and then wipe it down with WD-40.
If all goes well, it looks like this.
I then carefully inspect it under some bright lights to make sure there aren't any nasty scratches anywhere.
Ok, time to start finishing the rest of the hardware. I use my lathe to polish up the screw heads.
Clean and queue all the parts and get ready to check the fit of everything again.
Into the ferric chloride it goes! After about 5 minutes, I neutralize it in a white vinegar/distilled water bath...
...and then wipe it down with WD-40.
If all goes well, it looks like this.
I then carefully inspect it under some bright lights to make sure there aren't any nasty scratches anywhere.
Ok, time to start finishing the rest of the hardware. I use my lathe to polish up the screw heads.
Clean and queue all the parts and get ready to check the fit of everything again.
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Tom Anderson
Artistry in Titanium
I assemble everything using some light Teflon lubricant on the washers, swing the blade open and check for wobble, swing the blade closed and see if the detent still pulls the blade into the handle (like it should), and check for any gaps or irregularities.
If everything checks out, all that remains is removing the blade, cleaning it, heat treating it, hand rub, polish, etch, and sharpen it. Then, the whole works goes back together.
I didn't take photos of heat treating and finishing the blade, because it's pretty much like finishing any knife blade.
That's it, folks!
If everything checks out, all that remains is removing the blade, cleaning it, heat treating it, hand rub, polish, etch, and sharpen it. Then, the whole works goes back together.
I didn't take photos of heat treating and finishing the blade, because it's pretty much like finishing any knife blade.
That's it, folks!
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Tom Anderson
Artistry in Titanium
Curtiss Knives
KD Founding Member #1, Knifemaker
Thank you sir. I will post a link.
Tom Anderson
Artistry in Titanium
Well, people probably have worn them out!
There have been over 20,000 hits since I originally posted them.
I'll see what I can do. It might take a little while.
There have been over 20,000 hits since I originally posted them.
I'll see what I can do. It might take a little while.
Tom Anderson
Artistry in Titanium
I think everything is back up, again.
Good thing I had a backup album, huh?
Good thing I had a backup album, huh?
Tom Anderson
Artistry in Titanium
I'm using something called KeyCAD.
The company has been out of business for a while.
The company has been out of business for a while.
Ernie Swanson
SASSY PINK LUUNCHBOX KNIFE MAKER
WOW.......... Great tutorial, very informative
Thank you for posting it
Thank you for posting it
Tom Anderson
Artistry in Titanium
Figured I'd bump this to the top.
It's been over a year with 2,500+ hits in this forum.
Hopefully, a few people have learned something from it.
It's been over a year with 2,500+ hits in this forum.
Hopefully, a few people have learned something from it.
Tom Anderson
Artistry in Titanium
Well, it wouldn't be easy to put down in a few paragraphs. I've been working with titanium for 15 years and I'm still learning how to cut it.
I can offer a few basic recommendations, based on my experience...
Always reduce the speed as compared to working with carbon steel. Titanium retains heat. Heat destroys most cutters and abrasives.
Use cobalt drills. The one's with a 135° split point seem to work best.
Use ceramic coated abrasives and don't force the work piece. If you start seeing white powder on the part, slow down and put on a new belt. Titanium oxide (that white stuff) is dangerous.
Some makers friction cut titanium at high speeds, but I like to use bimetal band saw blades with a staggered pitch. The number of teeth required depends on the thickness of the material you're cutting. I set the speed at 100 fpm or so.
I prefer carbide end mills and carbide lathe inserts. They seem to last longer than high speed tools, although alloyed titanium (ex: 6AL4V) is hard on any type of cutter. Interrupted cuts especially break lots of tools.
60% threads are easier to cut than 70% threads, so adjust your tap drill sizes accordingly. Titanium wraps around the teeth of taps. Also remember to go slow and use plenty of lubricant. If you go fast, the tap will wear, and the titanium will heat up. You could end up locking the tap inside the hole. Go slow and use plenty of lubricant.
Every make you ask is going to have different opinions based on his or her experience. I've tried things that seem to work for other makers and ended up just wasting time, tools, and materials. It's all part of the learning experience.
I can offer a few basic recommendations, based on my experience...
Always reduce the speed as compared to working with carbon steel. Titanium retains heat. Heat destroys most cutters and abrasives.
Use cobalt drills. The one's with a 135° split point seem to work best.
Use ceramic coated abrasives and don't force the work piece. If you start seeing white powder on the part, slow down and put on a new belt. Titanium oxide (that white stuff) is dangerous.
Some makers friction cut titanium at high speeds, but I like to use bimetal band saw blades with a staggered pitch. The number of teeth required depends on the thickness of the material you're cutting. I set the speed at 100 fpm or so.
I prefer carbide end mills and carbide lathe inserts. They seem to last longer than high speed tools, although alloyed titanium (ex: 6AL4V) is hard on any type of cutter. Interrupted cuts especially break lots of tools.
60% threads are easier to cut than 70% threads, so adjust your tap drill sizes accordingly. Titanium wraps around the teeth of taps. Also remember to go slow and use plenty of lubricant. If you go fast, the tap will wear, and the titanium will heat up. You could end up locking the tap inside the hole. Go slow and use plenty of lubricant.
Every make you ask is going to have different opinions based on his or her experience. I've tried things that seem to work for other makers and ended up just wasting time, tools, and materials. It's all part of the learning experience.
S
silverjay
Guest
Alloy preference?
Tom,
You mention that working with 6al4v is tough on everything. Is there an alloy/thickness that you prefer or works easier?
Thanks,
Matt
Tom,
You mention that working with 6al4v is tough on everything. Is there an alloy/thickness that you prefer or works easier?
Thanks,
Matt
Tom Anderson
Artistry in Titanium
Grade 2 (commercially pure) titanium is easier to work than alpha-beta alloys.
My customers prefer alpha-beta alloys because of the enhanced durability, so I haven't used Grade 2 in many years.
I use Grade 5 (6AL4V) bar and plate for most items. For those few items I make that require tubing, I use Grade 9 (3AL2.5V) seamless.
My customers prefer alpha-beta alloys because of the enhanced durability, so I haven't used Grade 2 in many years.
I use Grade 5 (6AL4V) bar and plate for most items. For those few items I make that require tubing, I use Grade 9 (3AL2.5V) seamless.
RickA
Well-Known Member
Hi Tom
I just read your Frame Lock tutorial, and there is only one thing I can say - THANK YOU for a BRILLIANT TUTORIAL.
I am still a newbie, having made only a few fixed blades, and assembled a couple of folder kits.
When I am ready to try my hand at making a folder I will definitely be referring to your tutorial again.
Thanks
Rick
I just read your Frame Lock tutorial, and there is only one thing I can say - THANK YOU for a BRILLIANT TUTORIAL.
I am still a newbie, having made only a few fixed blades, and assembled a couple of folder kits.
When I am ready to try my hand at making a folder I will definitely be referring to your tutorial again.
Thanks
Rick
