Neck Knife help needed.

Mark Barone

Well-Known Member
I would like to start a new thread as I make my neck knife. PIcture below. I have ruined 3 or 4 blades so far and I have learned a bit from each one. It's made out of 1080 1/8 inch steel. It's not hardened yet. I used a 1 x30 HF grinder and a jig. 60 grit as it looks now. I have about a dime thickness or a little more on the edge. I still have to drill my pin holes. I'm happy so far, both sides have the same size bevel. My las t blade I screwed up after heat treating. I tried to sand the flat side of the blade to be shiny and smooth and really wreck it and the bevel. I have to rely on power tools as any repetitive motion like hand sanding is painful for me, thanks to my meatcutting days. My son has a 4 x 36 inch belt sander. can I put a high grit on there and lay it flat on it. Also when I do need to sharpen it , do I just make another little sharp bevel at the edge or bring down the whole bevel. I hope I am explaining it right. I have kiln for high temps and will also anneal at 400.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1846.JPG
    IMG_1846.JPG
    1.2 MB · Views: 40
Last edited:
That's looking pretty good so far. I know you have a hard time with hand tools, but draw filing really isn't that rigorous. It will be much easier to finish off your bevels by draw filing rather than trying to get a real clean bevel on a 1x30. You've done a great job hogging off the bulk of the bevel. You'll find a file gives you a lot of control, anyway.

Everybody has their own way to do things, but my advice on the next knife is to do all of your hole drilling before you start grinding bevels. That way you have a big, flat piece of metal and it lays on your drill press table that much better without trying to rock. Not only that, there's no risk of dinging up your bevels if there aren't any yet. If you can't clamp the blank down to drill it, then at least put a bolt in the T-slot to make a stop. Do your drilling with the blank up against the stop. That way, if the drill bit bites in the blank won't suddenly turn into an airplane propeller. That little stop sticking up does a great job of holding the blank from spinning, and your fingers will thank you for it.
 
THanks John , I had a close call on my last blade. I did have it clamped but it broke loose. Not only did it spin , it came off the bit and became a projectile. I now have a drill press vice. I know I should have done it first but I guess I was thinking I would get the holes centered properly after the shape was cut out. In case I had to reshape it a little. I'm getting really good at staying right to the score lines so I will take your advice next time.
 
Drilled holes and heat treated today quenching in canola oil and cleaned all the carbon stuff off.

1.Do I anneal it 400 before I sand it shiny or after the 400 degrees. Or does it matter?

2. Can I put the final sharpened bevel on after the handle is done?
 
The way I do mine is sand to 220 (many go to 400 or 600), harden blade, temper blade, start sanding where you left off, in my case 220, 400, 600, finish off the front of scales (closest to Riccaso very difficult to finish this area after scales are attached), tape off blade, epoxy the scales, shape handle, finish sand your scales (depends on what you use and how far you want to go), sharpen, take a step back convince yourself yes You did make that!! Show everyone that will sit still long enough all your trials and tribulation with it, if there still there after the quick version. Tell them a more detailed account of it!! Move onto the next, your a knife maker!! Congratulations!!
 
Drilled holes and heat treated today quenching in canola oil and cleaned all the carbon stuff off.

1.Do I anneal it 400 before I sand it shiny or after the 400 degrees. Or does it matter?

2. Can I put the final sharpened bevel on after the handle is done?




You want to temper immediately after heat treat if at all possible, then do your finishing.
I agree with what others are saying I do not sharpen until the sheath is made.
 
IMG_1447.JPG
Here it is so far. Up to 600. In afraid to keep messing with it. I don't need a mirror finish but I still see the grit lines . I thought they would be gone by 600.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top