Need help gluing liners

taylormadeknives

taylormadeknives

Well-Known Member
I have failed miserably trying to epoxy fiber liners to jigged bone scales. I'm not doing anything different, but they just won't adhere. I have only used bone a few times, but never had this problem before. I prepped the scales by drilling 1/4" holes in the back side and roughing them up with 60 grit. My first attempt was with a 5 min epoxy that I always use on liners. I forget the brand, but I buy it at Ace hardware. No luck. Then I cleaned them back up and tried my 15 min epoxy that I use to glue up the scales. I get it from Tracy at USA KNIFEMAKER. It works great, but no luck again. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I thought about using Gorilla glue, but I am afraid of the little yellow bubbly line that it will leave. Seems like it expands so much and I can see a bubbly line. Epoxy is clear, so that is the obvious choice for me. I have attached a pic to show the scale prepped


a4etu7eq.jpg


Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
Your prep looks good as once failed you will have to grind back enough material to expose new pores.
I don't like the 5 min epoxy because to me the longer the epoxy is in liquid state the more chance it has to seep into pores.
Grind the flats of the hidden part of the handle/spacer to create a pocket for the epoxy- if you sqeeze out all the epoxy from flats there's nothing left to hold.
I use black Loctice Hysol 11C epoxy or JB Weld epoxy with a black die for what it's worth.
Prep is everything- try a more aggressive cleaner on the scales that will activate the material - I use acetone but some use
brake cleaner but would have to be careful with that. Have never used gorilla.
 
Ausbrooks said:
Your prep looks good as once failed you will have to grind back enough material to expose new pores.
I don't like the 5 min epoxy because to me the longer the epoxy is in liquid state the more chance it has to seep into pores.
Grind the flats of the hidden part of the handle/spacer to create a pocket for the epoxy- if you sqeeze out all the epoxy from flats there's nothing left to hold.
I use black Loctice Hysol 11C epoxy or JB Weld epoxy with a black die for what it's worth.
Prep is everything- try a more aggressive cleaner on the scales that will activate the material - I use acetone but some use
brake cleaner but would have to be careful with that. Have never used gorilla.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I will give that a shot with the Loc-tite. Never had any trouble before, so this is really strange. I didn't clean the surface before gluing, I will definitely do that on the next go around.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
I use CA for gluing my liners to everything. Works well for me. I also have stopped using fiber liners and now use the G10 ones from USA Knifemaker's Supply. They are moisture proof and will last longer protecting the metal. I then use epoxy to attach the scale combo to the knife.
 
George, why use CA for gluing scales to liners, but epoxy for gluing liner/scale to tang? Does the liner/scale joint require less holding strength than the liner/tang joint?

I've only used liners on 3 or 4 knives and used epoxy for both joints.

Ken H.
 
KenH said:
George, why use CA for gluing scales to liners, but epoxy for gluing liner/scale to tang? Does the liner/scale joint require less holding strength than the liner/tang joint?

I've only used liners on 3 or 4 knives and used epoxy for both joints.

Ken H.
Click to expand...

I think it has to do with different ways the CA and epoxy attaches itself to the liner/scale. CA, with a water like viscosity, seeps around and into the pores quicker then epoxy.
 
That makes sense - the tang wouldn't soak up CA at all, while epoxy would bond better there, but with the porous liner/scale would allow the CA to work perhaps as well as epoxy.

Thanks for the info,

Ken H>
 
TacticallySharp said:
I use CA for gluing my liners to everything. Works well for me. I also have stopped using fiber liners and now use the G10 ones from USA Knifemaker's Supply. They are moisture proof and will last longer protecting the metal. I then use epoxy to attach the scale combo to the knife.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will keep that in mind. I personally don't care for G-10 as liners. They just don't seem very bright to me. I have used them some and they definitely offer them in a lot more colors. I may have to start using them more and try gluing them up using CA

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
Hi, I think what is happening is most jigged bone is oil dyed and very saturated when we get them. A good wipe down with acetone will remove a lot of these oils from the surface allowing the epoxy to stick. With that being said, super glues work good for sticking to oily surfaces and should be plenty strong for liner attachment.
Good luck,
Clint
 
Sampson knifeworks said:
Hi, I think what is happening is most jigged bone is oil dyed and very saturated when we get them. A good wipe down with acetone will remove a lot of these oils from the surface allowing the epoxy to stick. With that being said, super glues work good for sticking to oily surfaces and should be plenty strong for liner attachment.
Good luck,
Clint
Click to expand...

Thanks! I suspect your right. I cleaned the scale thoroughly with xylene first. Then wiped them down with denatured alcohol. I'm sure that cleaned any oils that were there. I used Loctite brand CA and glued the jigged bone and clamped with cheap spring clamps to a piece of granite. It worked! Never thought CA had a chance. I can't break them apart. They stuck great. Thanks for the tips guys!

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
I stopped using those fiber liners long ago. I found no glue, CA or epoxy that would bond it very well no matter what I tried for surface prep or cleaners. They also WILL absorb moisture or humidity and shrink or swell over time..................usually not very much time either. That is a guarantee.

Good luck with yours. If I was going to try them again, I'd probably give the gorilla brand super glue a shot.

But honestly, I think the problem is not the adhesive, it's the fiber liners themselves.

Just my two cents.
 
Thanks John! I think I'm going to have to give up using the fiber liners. I didn't know they absorb moisture! I will start using the G-10 instead. Thanks for the heads up

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
Hello,
Glad the CA worked for you ! When I use the fiber liners, I seal the edges and handles with Tru oil or a Tung oil to seal everything. I had problems with stabilized woods shrinking and moving around in the past, and resolved the problem with the oil seal for final finishing. I also use them oils for sealing bone and Ivory.
Clint



taylormadeknives said:
Thanks John! I think I'm going to have to give up using the fiber liners. I didn't know they absorb moisture! I will start using the G-10 instead. Thanks for the heads up

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
Audeamus,

Your on the money. They also dry faster and are cleaner to work with when I use the CA for the liners. Fiber liners never seemed as a good option as they are very porous. I use liners as protection against moisture mainly. I also find that marine epoxy works very well in my humid climate for attaching the final assembly to the tang.
 
TacticallySharp said:
Audeamus,

Your on the money. They also dry faster and are cleaner to work with when I use the CA for the liners. Fiber liners never seemed as a good option as they are very porous. I use liners as protection against moisture mainly. I also find that marine epoxy works very well in my humid climate for attaching the final assembly to the tang.
Click to expand...

Thanks! It worked great! I am really pleased with the results. I'm definitely switching to G-10 liners. They dried super fast using the Loc-tite brand CA. I couldn't pull the liner off of the jigged bone scales if I wanted to. Excellent bond! I'm happy it worked so well

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
I use fish paper and haven't real had any problems on my culinary knives. But just to make sure I am moving over to using colored Kydex. You get the seal and they won't soak up moisture and most importantly won't turn into little fish hooks like G-10 when you grind it and stay in your lungs till the end of your days or make me etchy..

FYI, G-10 will kill your bandsaw blade.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top