Need help with hidden tang size.
- Thread starter coachcampana
- Start date
coachcampana
Well-Known Member
I didn't take it poorly. No worries. And I didn't try using a punch to close the gaps. Would you just use a punch and hammer "hard" around the gap? I've never made a guard before or a hidden tang blade. So this is all new to me.
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"Hard" is relative to who's doing the whacking.
Depending on the type or shape of voids, some tools are better than others. If its long and narrow, I'd use something like a lightly rounded chisel to 'drive' the material towards the gap. If its just a divot, use a slightly rounded (nail) punch slightly larger than the divot. Start about 1/8" away and tap the punch/chisel towards the offending gap at a slight angle. Like plowing snow. Start lightly and the material will tell you how much whacking it needs . You'll have to judge how deep to punch so the next round of sanding doesn't take it all off again. This will be done with the tang in a vise and shoulders sitting on the guard. It sounds worse than it really is, it's pretty easy.
I'm not suggesting you try this but I've had good luck with stainless on the anvil and giving the guard a good whack with the 2# hammer. The slot closed up enough to finish with light taps of the punch. You gotta be brave some times.
Rudy
Depending on the type or shape of voids, some tools are better than others. If its long and narrow, I'd use something like a lightly rounded chisel to 'drive' the material towards the gap. If its just a divot, use a slightly rounded (nail) punch slightly larger than the divot. Start about 1/8" away and tap the punch/chisel towards the offending gap at a slight angle. Like plowing snow. Start lightly and the material will tell you how much whacking it needs . You'll have to judge how deep to punch so the next round of sanding doesn't take it all off again. This will be done with the tang in a vise and shoulders sitting on the guard. It sounds worse than it really is, it's pretty easy.
I'm not suggesting you try this but I've had good luck with stainless on the anvil and giving the guard a good whack with the 2# hammer. The slot closed up enough to finish with light taps of the punch. You gotta be brave some times.
Rudy
coachcampana
Well-Known Member
Peening around the opening, hard whacks, did the trick. Looks so much better. Once I shape the guard I'll just peen the rest of the guard and make it all look textured.
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coachcampana
Well-Known Member
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coachcampana
Well-Known Member
coachcampana
Well-Known Member
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OH BOY....
At the risk of paddling even further up the proverbial %*#* creek, I can't let this go since Coach posted such fine examples of the subject. If the question isn't asked, most of us assume everyone has a firm grasp of the details between the concept and the final objective....NOT TRUE. As Coach said, he's a first timer and this may help the rest too.
First of all...take a minute, lay down your components in front of you and contemplate your objective. One if not several solutions should come to mind sooner or later...later is good, it shows you took the time to think about it. Always start with a plan whether its mental or on paper.
Peening the gaps in a gaurd:
*The final objective is to have a DRIVE-ON fit.
*After round one of peening and a re-sand, you may have to do it again until you get that seemless fit on the face. Do whatever it takes.
* Don't overlook the part of the slot under the shoulders. Get it close at least, this will help in the teetering effect before applying the JB Weld...IF you have to use it.
I have to mention here that some us have mills and various needle files and ONLY use a press fit on our guards. If your scribe line for the slot isn't on the guard, chances are you're using the above method. If they're still there, use Dykem or a Sharpy on the tang and keep fitting and filing until you're driving on the last 1/4" or so. While filing, don't be afraid to flare the back of the guard a LITTLE bit. After the press fit, you can fill that gap with JB Weld if needed, but ONLY in the back.
IF using JB-Weld :
*Apply the concoction ONLY to the INSIDE of the guard slot.
*Remove any spill over from the face of the guard BEFORE anything else.
*Lay your guard FACE UP on your vise jaws...slide the tang DOWN INTO the guard.
*Firmly seat the blade shoulders to the guard. You DON'T want any JB under those shoulders.
*Clamp the vise. Leave the thing alone...go play with the kids or dog, take the queen out to dinner. Do anything but fiddle with the thing until tomorrow.
After removing from the vise, you can file/sand off any residue in back of the guard or on the tang. JB is pretty impervious to most cleaners but ZYLENE does work. FOLLOW ALL PRECAUTIONS, ITS NASTY STUFF.
As stated, I don't use this method any more. There's no substitute for a precision fit but I can remember when I had to. Hope this helps and start with a plan.
Rudy
At the risk of paddling even further up the proverbial %*#* creek, I can't let this go since Coach posted such fine examples of the subject. If the question isn't asked, most of us assume everyone has a firm grasp of the details between the concept and the final objective....NOT TRUE. As Coach said, he's a first timer and this may help the rest too.
First of all...take a minute, lay down your components in front of you and contemplate your objective. One if not several solutions should come to mind sooner or later...later is good, it shows you took the time to think about it. Always start with a plan whether its mental or on paper.
Peening the gaps in a gaurd:
*The final objective is to have a DRIVE-ON fit.
*After round one of peening and a re-sand, you may have to do it again until you get that seemless fit on the face. Do whatever it takes.
* Don't overlook the part of the slot under the shoulders. Get it close at least, this will help in the teetering effect before applying the JB Weld...IF you have to use it.
I have to mention here that some us have mills and various needle files and ONLY use a press fit on our guards. If your scribe line for the slot isn't on the guard, chances are you're using the above method. If they're still there, use Dykem or a Sharpy on the tang and keep fitting and filing until you're driving on the last 1/4" or so. While filing, don't be afraid to flare the back of the guard a LITTLE bit. After the press fit, you can fill that gap with JB Weld if needed, but ONLY in the back.
IF using JB-Weld :
*Apply the concoction ONLY to the INSIDE of the guard slot.
*Remove any spill over from the face of the guard BEFORE anything else.
*Lay your guard FACE UP on your vise jaws...slide the tang DOWN INTO the guard.
*Firmly seat the blade shoulders to the guard. You DON'T want any JB under those shoulders.
*Clamp the vise. Leave the thing alone...go play with the kids or dog, take the queen out to dinner. Do anything but fiddle with the thing until tomorrow.
After removing from the vise, you can file/sand off any residue in back of the guard or on the tang. JB is pretty impervious to most cleaners but ZYLENE does work. FOLLOW ALL PRECAUTIONS, ITS NASTY STUFF.
As stated, I don't use this method any more. There's no substitute for a precision fit but I can remember when I had to. Hope this helps and start with a plan.
Rudy
coachcampana
Well-Known Member
It was a press fit, but I guess I like overkill. The soldering went just fine as far as I can tell. Nice joint all the way around.
I'll be saving everyone's advice in this thread for the next hidden tang. I'm almost finished.
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I'll be saving everyone's advice in this thread for the next hidden tang. I'm almost finished.
Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
coachcampana
Well-Known Member
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coachcampana
Well-Known Member
I need to use more material for my guard next time. But I'm happy with my outcome so far.
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Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk