Need some input..

Jim Coffee

Jim Coffee

Well-Known Member
I came across a piece of 304 stainless sheeting today, it's about 1/8" thick. I have never used 304, I always use 416. My question is.. What are the pluses and minuses of 304 compared to 416 stainless. Thanks for the help here.
 
I used 416 on several knives and got away from it for two reasons - it was tough to find in the sizes I wanted to use at a reasonable cost at the time and in my opinion it's not that much more scuff resistant than brass. 304 is tougher by some margin and that's what I'm looking for. It looks just like 416 when finished although it's more labor intensive. Super gummy to drill and wants to leave a little "hat" on the exit of each hole. It does swage beautifully when I fit the bolsters using matching pins. I use the best cobalt bits and mills I can find working it and now that I'm used to it after a couple of hundred knives it's now a non-issue and I don't find it particularly difficult anymore - when I do have a custom with brass or mild steel requested I always think to myself "Wow, now that was easy!" The flat bar I find in a huge variety of sizes which is great - however it's not nearly as square of a product as brass or the alternatives when viewed on-end. It's typically got a little dimensional irregularity to the bar and one side will be crowned slightly with the other cupped. Edges of the bars are more radiused than other products. Pinstock is readily available. It's never ever sold out or unavailable, however and it's downsides aren't enough to make me even think about going back to 416.
 
I'm with Frank on scuff resistance of 416.
When I first used 416 I was sorely disappointed. After going to the trouble of sanding to 4000 grit and a nice fluid mirror polish on a couple sets of bolsters....just one day of displaying on those nice white starched table cloths at a show made them look like I'd satin finished one side. The 304 is like Frank said and it takes a nice polish. The texture on my bars looks like mill scale but no problem grinding it. On the 1/4" bars, the cup and crown is very prominent.

Rudy
 
There is 303 and 304 stainless, only one number makes the difference in this post but they are worlds apart.

I could never which one was good and which one was bad, till I heard the little saying to go with it, "303 is nice and free (machining), 304 is a F&^%$ W*&^." so yeah... ;)
 
we use 304 or 316 at the office any time we need stainless. fairly easy to work with new blades or bits. easy to find as flat stock, round(from 1/8"), tube, pipe, and prepared dowel pins. dowel pins and hardware(nuts and bolts) are sometimes sold as 18-8, all are similar chemically.
 
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I've tried the 316 a couple times and found it hard to finish in the higher grits from 600 on up.
The welding supply is a great source for 316 pin stock, comes as TIG rod. It also takes a nice polish once you can get that far. Good belts definitely make a difference.

Les is right on the difference between the two but if you do all you can with the ceramic belts in shaping, the higher grits go easier. I use all trizac belts after 400 grit, they seem to handle it well.

Rudy
 
I've used a lot of 416 and it seemed ok to use. maybe you need to heat treat it before use. It only gets in the 40's so you can still work it ok. It will a world of difference in the messed up bolsters.
Anyway worth trying if you have some laying around.
Percy
 
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