Parts list for feedback

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Craig, so I remember this thread when it first started and I honestly did not read every word of the thread, so got to ask! Did you buy this grinder of make it from scratch??? So not sure if I am looking at a clone of the Bader or a new model. Either way it is looking sweet so far!

I remember looking at KenH's aluminum KMG clone and saying, I like that I built my own clone, if I had it too do over I would build something closer to TW90 becuase it will rotate on its side. Before I could blink KenH grabs his and smiles, "like this"!!! He has his mounted on a plate with a hinge and the whole machine rolls over 90*. Sometimes simple is so simple it is over looked by the brain! :what!: :biggrin:
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Looking good will have to check back more often!!
 
C Craft said:
Craig, so I remember this thread when it first started and I honestly did not read every word of the thread, so got to ask! Did you buy this grinder of make it from scratch??? So not sure if I am looking at a clone of the Bader or a new model. Either way it is looking sweet so far!

I remember looking at KenH's aluminum KMG clone and saying, I like that I built my own clone, if I had it too do over I would build something closer to TW90 becuase it will rotate on its side. Before I could blink KenH grabs his and smiles, "like this"!!! He has his mounted on a plate with a hinge and the whole machine rolls over 90*. Sometimes simple is so simple it is over looked by the brain! :what!:
rotf.gif


Looking good will have to check back more often!!
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Its a polar bear forge grinder in a box 2.0 it is a kit. I had planned to fan my own but the cost to time ratio didn't make sense compared to Jamie's offering. I think I paid 290 with shipping. Doesn't include wheels or a motor.
 
Looking good! Pretty soon you'll be throwing sparks!


C Craft, I don't have pictures, but some people have taken the GIB and mounted it such that it can be rotate.

Jamie
 
Thanks guys. Having a tough time tapping a few holes which is kinda disappointing. And I'm missing several bolts. So tomorrow back to the hardware store.
 
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Took me alot of time and tweaking to get everything the way I wanted. Still not really thrilled with some aspects. Lord willing I'll have it secured to the bench and wired tomorrow
 
polarbearforge said:
Looks good to me! What are you not thrilled with?

Jamie
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I won't say its anything to do with your kit. Because truthfully I am not sure if the problems I had were user error or not.

I had a bear of a time getting things tapped. In fact the only hole I didn't give up on was for the adjustment screw for the tracking wheel.

Every other whole I tried tapping would not take threads. I tried making sure the holes were the right size. Boughy new taps. Tried different tapping fluids. Just wasn't happening. I ended up drilling out the holes that were to be tapped 1/2-13 to 1/2 ID. And just through bolted everything. The holes that were supposed to be tapped @ 5/16 for the tool arm stop bolt I ended up just drilling a hole in my tooling arms to accommodated a pin.

Like I said. Could've been me on all accounts.

Getting the tracking right was tough but a couple washers and a level got me there.

Other than that my only other critiques would be that ,although its not a difficult build, a set of instructions should be available and a more complete list for hardware needed.

Again I am really really really happy with everything. Especially for the cost. When I build another one in the future I'll have no issues because I'll know what to expect.
 
I'm wondering if you had trouble tapping the holes because of the laser cut parts (it is laser'd, right?). On blade steel, I had holes and edges that were super hard. The heat from the laser hardened about a 0.025" deep everywhere it touched. Not sure if mild steel should have reacted the same, but...?
 
Self Made Knives said:
I'm wondering if you had trouble tapping the holes because of the laser cut parts (it is laser'd, right?). On blade steel, I had holes and edges that were super hard. The heat from the laser hardened about a 0.025" deep everywhere it touched. Not sure if mild steel should have reacted the same, but...?
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Could be. But like I said I am inexperienced with tapping so I could have been the problem. I adapted and overcame.
 
I just finished my GIB 2.0 with the exception of the motor and VFD and had no problems tapping (10 holes total). Just had to take it slow, cut a 1/8 to 1/4 of a thread, back the tap off to clear shavings and then another cut. So on and so on. Can't wait to get her finished.

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NC Biker said:
I just finished my GIB 2.0 with the exception of the motor and VFD and had no problems tapping (10 holes total). Just had to take it slow, cut a 1/8 to 1/4 of a thread, back the tap off to clear shavings and then another cut. So on and so on. Can't wait to get her finished.

GIBbuild.png
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Looking good brother. I'm not putting the blame on Jamie at all.
 
craigbladeworks said:
...
I had a bear of a time getting things tapped. In fact the only hole I didn't give up on was for the adjustment screw for the tracking wheel.
...
Other than that my only other critiques would be that ,although its not a difficult build, a set of instructions should be available and a more complete list for hardware needed.
.
Click to expand...

Thanks! One of my main goals was to keep it afforadable.

These are off of my new machine. The steel won't harden enough to make it un tappable. It will, though cut slightly undersize. Based on some of my other materials, that's exactly what has been happening. I've been working on tweaking settings to get that dialed in, so if you do another kit, it shouldn't be an issue.

I plan on expanding the current assembly instructions, as well as making a video walk through of the process. I'm hoping to have that done within the next few monthes, as spring is a busy time around here.

Jamie
 
a good tapping oil like RapidTap makes a difference. use a lot. get a good quality made in USA or england tap. take it slow.
 
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