Fred Rowe
Well-Known Member
I'm forging a run of kitchen knives from W2 steel. The first set came out quite thin; .098 spine @ shoulders .030 at the edge. I've run all the heat cycles on these and know the grain to be refined, I ran stress relief as well. I'm quenching in Parks 50 @ 130fh.
Because they are thin; I've built an alum. clamp using 3/4" x 3" x 12" inch bar stock. This clamp adjust for both distal taper and bevel angle.
MY QUESTION: How long would you leave these thin blades in the quench oil before moving to the alum. clamp. With stock this thin, how long do you think it will take to pass the pearlite nose? These blades will be painted for hamons using PBC anti scale compound.
I've not had trouble with warp using this steel when the spine is at .120 but these are thin, whats your best guess?
Thanks, Fred
Because they are thin; I've built an alum. clamp using 3/4" x 3" x 12" inch bar stock. This clamp adjust for both distal taper and bevel angle.
MY QUESTION: How long would you leave these thin blades in the quench oil before moving to the alum. clamp. With stock this thin, how long do you think it will take to pass the pearlite nose? These blades will be painted for hamons using PBC anti scale compound.
I've not had trouble with warp using this steel when the spine is at .120 but these are thin, whats your best guess?
Thanks, Fred
