Questions metal heads/(machinists)

Ahhh. I thought you were trying to recess a butt cap/pommel into some antler. You wanna make a ferule for the guard side. I guess I should practice reading more.
 
ARCustomKnives said:
Ahhh. I thought you were trying to recess a butt cap/pommel into some antler. You wanna make a ferule for the guard side. I guess I should practice reading more.
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No problem I do that myself sometimes!! Actually I have figured out I am going to attempt something that would be pretty easy if I had a mill or a lathe. Alas, poor boy me I have only a mediocre drill press. :D

me·di·o·cre
[ˌmēdēˈōkər]

ADJECTIVE

  1. of only moderate quality; not the best and not the worst.
I will have to watch for a used mill or lathe!!!
 
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I guess the furrele is wider than the metal guard? Otherwise the guard would cover the end and no need for a blind hole, just a hole drilled thru.
 
Yep, one end of the ferule will be round to receive the antler being used for the handle and the other end will be tapered/angled/machined down to the width of the guard. I have never attempted one exactly like this. The how to on this ferule has had me a stand still for a while!! The other day I started to brainstorm on how I would accomplish this. That where you guys come in to the brainstorming session!

opaul said:
Whew! I just read this whole thread, my mind is numb :)
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OP it has given me a headache but I really think I may have this part figured out! Now this is the part where it works or I go back to the drawing board, so to speak!! :p
 
C Craft said:
John, I will keep you in mind! Thanks for the offer!! I am still trying to figure out how to do it "in house"! I am stubborn ole cuss, or at least I have been told that!! :eek::p

It's kind of like this, you can't learn to swim when you are standing on the bank!!
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take real heed to what john said.....death defying...and child's play...that is a perfect description of the two methods. If you are only making one of these send it to John. If this is going to become a standard design for you...get a lathe....serious.:eek:
 
Ted, just like you late to the party! I figured you would showed up about a 1/2 way down the first page! :) Yeah at present I am looking at one. It would not be the first time I bit off more than I can chew!

I am not going to kill myself. Over the years I have learned the difference between this could loose me a little skin and damn, didn't know it was gonna take my head off!! :eek::p
 
other end will be tapered/angled/machined down to the width of the guard.
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If the guard will cover all that end, why will an open ferrule not work? Why does it need to be a blind hole? Once the guard is installed with ferrule against the metal guard, how can you tell if it was made with blind hole, or open hole? I must be missing something.
 
The end of the ferule will have to be dressed down to the width of the guard. The antler is about 3/4'' give or take. The guard will need to be narrower to make it look right! Maybe tomorrow I can find an example to show what I am speaking of!!
 
Just regarding the the OP post looking for an adjustable carbide bit, that can be used for bore holes. I think what you might have had mind was a boring head, which is normally used on mills or lathes.

https://www.amazon.com/BHS-2-Boring...F8&qid=1532685385&sr=8-3&keywords=boring+head

Not sure how it would go in a dril as it works off centre which in my opinion would put side loading on the chuck shank (particularly large bores) which makes the chucks fall out and can kill the bearings in the process. The positive is that the cuts can be managed so you can go light which I think be far less than driving a 3/4” drill into w. Iron. You might be ok ... but have never tried it so cant’t give a recommendation.

P.s you could probably get one that would take an MT tang the same as your current chuck, which will increase rigidity, as it removes the chuck from the equation but the side load issues will still exist
 
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Sansspaceship said:
Just regarding the the OP post looking for an adjustable carbide bit, that can be used for bore holes. I think what you might have had mind was a boring head, which is normally used on mills or lathes.

https://www.amazon.com/BHS-2-Boring...F8&qid=1532685385&sr=8-3&keywords=boring+head

Not sure how it would go in a dril as it works off centre which in my opinion would put side loading on the chuck shank (particularly large bores) which makes the chucks fall out and can kill the bearings in the process. The positive is that the cuts can be managed so you can go light which I think be far less than driving a 3/4” drill into w. Iron. You might be ok ... but have never tried it so cant’t give a recommendation.

P.s you could probably get one that would take an MT tang the same as your current chuck, which will increase rigidity, as it removes the chuck from the equation but the side load issues will still exist
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Thanks for the info, now all I got to do is find a used mill or lathe I can afford!
 
Not to put you off, but save some money for tooling .... if you buy a second hand mill or lathe try and get the tooling as well. As most people starting out miss this fact, tooling and work holding adds up quickly. But they are a fantastic tool to have in the shop.
 
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