Slit and Drift Bolster

Eddie Mullins

Eddie Mullins

Well-Known Member
I have been surfing videos on Youtube, and every so often there is an Ah Ha moment, and I just had one. On1 video the maker opted to slit and then drift the hole in the bolster and then fit it to the tang hot. I've only made 1 bolster so far and spent hours trying to fit it, I love forging and this seems so much easier I just could believe I didn't think of trying it, but I haven't seen any other reference to it either. Do you any of you use this technique? I hope to give it a try soon.
 
Yup, works great. Takes more time to make up a punch to match the size of the tang fairly close then it does to make the hole.
 
During the 18th c., and earlier, the French forge welded their bolsters to the bades, giving the appearance of being integral. Some of their blades were wrought iron with a forge welded higher carbon cutting edge. The English forge welded tangs, both full and narrow, and bolstered to some of theirs, and in front of the hilt. The joints can be seen on some of the dug relic blades.
 
Seems a much simpler technique then drilling and filling the slot, or even milling (if I had one) I only hopes it works as well as I am hoping : ) .
 
I haven't tried it yet myself. I usually just take my piece to work and have our machinist mill the slot for me. I usually use 304 SS, just because it's readily available. I get small scrap pieces at work. Problem is that is is very hard to work with compared to a softer material like brass or copper. I have a bunch of wrought iron wear rings and I need to make a guard for a dagger I am working on. I think drifting the slit will be the best way. I have a piece of coil spring that I plan to use to make the punch out of.

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