Some hunting knives I made

A

AJH_Knives

Well-Known Member
1084 steel 1/8" thick, have some stabilized wood and some kirinite handles.
the fist 3 are my Bird and trout versions, about 7-3/4" oal with a 3-1/2" cutting edge. Kirinite is popular on these. the last picture is of some hunting knives i have made. I sure do like me some stabilized wood. I was able to use one of the hunting knives this year to skin and quarter my bull elk. they are about 7-1/2" oal with a 3" cutting edge. thanks for looking

10603530_725622014182169_441247305759912025_n.jpg

10405488_386455168186960_4953224062011982874_n.jpg


1962872_725621537515550_8465449486258290631_n.jpg


10653654_714885515255819_4136977735995672896_n.jpg
 
Those look great Aaron- nice work on the hunters and that blue kirinite sure has some pop! Feel free to bring by elk sausage....
 
Aaron:

What tumbler/vibrator do you use? How big is your tub? I've been looking for one but I concerned that the tubs aren't big enough to accommodate hunting style knives like yours. Thanks

Wallace
 
the big one from harbor freight. it has an 18lb capacity. however i only use 10lbs of ceramic media and a little water.
 
Thanks, Aaron. I hope you don't mind another question. Today I etched a blade in Ferric Chloride. It came out pitch black. I washed it with Comet and a steel wool pad and it went from black to gun metal gray. Is that what should happen? Should I go ahead and blue it as is and then tumble it or should I just tumble it? If it's black after it is acid etched why blue it , or, conversely why etch it if you are going to blue it? I guess what I am really asking is: what is the black finish on the knife after it is acid etched and washed? Is it rust resistant? Is it as rust resistant as a cold blued? Thanks again, Aaron.

Wallace
 
Last edited:
yes, after etch it is black, the stuff gets on your hands and everything. i just use 0000 steel wool and warm water. once clean it is gun metal grey. then i blue it. i don't have to blue it, i just like the look.
i do not think it offers any rust proofing. Some one with more knowledge than me might be able to answer that. I personally have not had an etched and blued tumbled blade rust. I think, What it does does do is cover any staining that can occur when using it. i had one of my hunting knives this year, i used to cut up/ skin my bull elk. i forgot to wash the blood off the blade for a few days. when i got around to it, cleaned it right up and no noticeable staining. do that with a hand sanded finish and you will have staining,
 
Definitely a nice look to your knives. A couple of questions...is the cold bluing considered food safe (or does it really matter)? What is the longest blade that your tumbler could do? I'm going to be doing some knives in the 10"-11" range and like the stonewashed look.
 
KDX, i have been asked that question. i need to just call Birtchwood and ask. i believe cold bluing is okay. the chemical it self is poison.
i have the large 18 lb tumbler from harbor freight. I have put 10" oal blades in there no problem.
 
Thanks. I may have to order one of those tumblers. I was looking into black oxide for blade coating but Caswells said it is not FDA approved. I'm working with W2 and don't want to sell a knife or two and get a bad rep because I used cheap steel and the blade rusted or some such nonsense. A lot of people do not care for their knives very well it seems. I have about 90 inches to use up (practice on) before I move on to stainless.
 
Cold blue is not recommended for a kitchen knife. I spoke with the customer service person at birchwood casey. they said it is not recommended for a knife that will touch food. I asked why. they said the bluing was a poison. I understand that, so are you telling me that after the knife has been blued, tumbled and cleaned. your still going to get poisoned from the blade? She asked if i oil my blades, well yes i put oil on the blades. she said you can't eat that either. that is where i ended the conversation .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top